
Feet Up
Ask the majority of women what’s first thing they look at when meeting a man and you may be surprised by the answer.
SHOES.
I happen to agree. The single most important part of any gentleman’s attire is his shoes. All that effort into honing one’s appearance can be rendered useless in an instant if a man’s footwear is inappropriate, cheap or ugly, or even worse; inappropriate, cheap AND ugly.
Personally I’d rather go barefoot, or in socks, citing mental health issues or that my luggage had been destroyed by overzealous airport security than be seen in cheap shoes.
It’s a simple fact that good shoes and good clothes go together, yet even if you own just one great pair of shoes it can be enough to rescue even the most questionable wardrobe disaster.
So this raises the question how does one go about spotting a quality pair of shoes and where can you get your hands on them?
Edwards of Manchester, established in 1830, is the oldest independent shoe shop outside London. It has been based on the same site on Deansgate since it’s inception. Craig Johnson manager of Edwards explains what you should look for:
“It’s quite subjective, in that people often judge shoes on appearance rather than construction. For me personally what defines a well-made shoe is one that is Goodyear welted. What that means is that all the component parts of the shoes are stitched together and that means you’ll get an extremely comfortable and well fitting shoe. Particularly when you’ve had a chance to wear it a few times. Another benefit of the Goodyear welting process allows the shoe to take the shape of your foot, so that it becomes bespoke to you in a sense.”
Good shoes are made with care, attention, using quality leather and to some extent are made by hand. At first glance it is difficult to tell the difference from a really well constructed shoe and that of mass produced high street varieties. This can take years of practice and costly error before you train the eye to spot the best. Craig again:
“High street stores don’t carry Edward’s kind of range and product. We have a higher price point and a lot of people would not understand that on the high street, say. if they found a pair of Crockett and Jones for example at £320 next to a similar shoe at £50. It’s about education our customers. Nowadays a lot of customers are attracted to names such as Dolce and Gabbanna or Paul Smith who are not shoe makers, they’re designers who get their ranges made of a mass scale compared with say Church’s, or Gaziano and Girling who run very small operations with shoes made entirely in England.”
Its no mystery that English shoes have a worldwide reputation second to none and the home of English shoes is of course Northampton. Counting amongst others, Churchs, Crockett & Jones, Grenson, Barker, Trickers, and Cheaney as long standing residents.
Craig again: “We believe there will always be a market of high quality shoes, particular those with timeless styles such as brogues, chukka boots”
Fashionbeans: “Anything we should look out for?”
“Well like I said the brogue is doing well, as always, but we’ve noticed an increase in the desirability for the loafer, which has been slow to catch on in the UK, especially up north probably due to our weather.”
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The backbone of a wardrobe!
i just can’t afford to spend that much on a pair of shoes!
Love shoes and this article. Wish there was a better way of increasing your ability to spot faulty shoes.
He makes a good point though about not buying shoes from large fashion houses like D&G.
yes, well, what are multi-coloured brogues doing in an article deriding ugly shoes?
@mark I would agree that shoes are important and its better to save and spend one or two good pairs than just keep getting them from dolcis, river islans, shcuh or next which you only ever end up throwing them after a couple years cos they lose shape and the quality is not good.
I have one pair brown oliver sweeney loafers, one pair smart black prada loaders, one pair of tan quality brogues, all bought some 4-5 years ago for between 135-265 and they stand the test of time and dont go out of fashion, by looking after them also is worthwhile.
There are other makes out there that are quality such as Oliver Sweeney, ShoFolk, or visit the naturalshoestore.com for a selection of quality comfy english footwear.
http://www.thenaturalshoestore.com/index.php?m=home
here are some other examples of great british footwear that will give you both longjevity and style, ive just picked up the tan shofolk harry boater boot cos ive got enough smart loafers and brogues.
I see a lot more people now in central london wearing casual,leather, suede shoes with jeans compared to trainers and hi tops.
here are some other examples of great british footwear that will give you both longjevity and style, ive just picked up the tan shofolk harry boater boot cos ive got enough smart loafers and brogues.
http://www.sixwhitingstreet.co.uk/shoes-c-45.html?viewall=true
I see a lot more people now in central london wearing casual,leather, suede shoes with jeans compared to trainers and hi tops.
QUOTE: Alan:
“yes, well, what are multi-coloured brogues doing in an article deriding ugly shoes?”
I have absolutely no idea. I didn’t select all the picks but we do have to cater for chaps who do like something a little more daring.
@Alan: Mark is right in that he sends over some of his personal favourite picks for the article and then I bulk them out with a variety of styles because fashion is purely SUBJECTIVE and so something you find ugly, the man next to you will find beautiful (like with women?!).
Anyway the premise behind this article is that it is the QUALITY of the shoes which really make them great, the construction of the sole, how they are joined, the material used etc. If you want a great looking shoe then stick with your Paul Smith and Dolce’s because yes they are designers who will make a great LOOKING pair. All the shoes above though come from specialist English shoe brands where you can guarantee the quality of work.
The multi-coloured pair are actually a one off exclusive by Grenson with limited numbers available. If you actually click the link now they have sold out which means that some people actually didn’t find them ugly ;)
Well said Ben.
I always went for comfort in shoes but now I know it has to look good as well! Going to try Churchs and maybe Edwards of Manchester next time
i hate seeing a guy wearing a suit for work, like for instance a bank clerk, with a tasteless tie (usually bought by the wife) and a pair of shoes (sometimes very good ones) but of wich he takes no special care, passing weeks without giving them a slight brushing or a touch of shoe polish. it’s disgusting and simply passes the thought that this person only wears those items as a job uniform.