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Introduction
During our celluloid style series we will be delving deep in to film history to point the fashion finger at cinematic gems. In some cases, the whole movie may drip with style. And in other cases, it may be a specific character. Cinema can be a very powerful thing; it can reflect a society’s mood, kick-start a craze, romanticise a time period, or leave a legacy long after it was created. As much as it can be large scale, it can also be very personal.
Celluloid Style: The Talented Mr Ripley
The movie I would like to begin the series with is The Talented Mr Ripley; a 1999 American thriller starring Matt Damon, Jude Law and Gwyneth Paltrow. The movie is set in the 1950s and focuses on the talented Tom Ripley (Damon); a man who forges, lies and manipulates his way into the employ of wealthy shipbuilder Herbert Greenleaf. He then hires Ripley to track down his wayward son Dickie (Law) and bring him home. For those of you who haven’t seen it, I would highly recommend it!
[Buy The Talented Mr Ripley at: Amazon, Play.com or eBay]
The idea to focus on this film has been on my mind for a few months, notably since it was mentioned to me during a FashionBeans conversation with my friend Steve.
We began talking about Jude Law’s character, Dickie Greenleaf, a spoilt millionaire playboy and jazz fanatic, living on his father’s money in the South of Italy. To me, the costume of the movie has certainly been thoroughly considered, in terms of both its accuracy and flair. There is a glorious clash of two fashion cultures in this movie. Firstly, the preppy, all-American, ivy league sensibility of Matt Damon’s Tom Ripley; dropped into post-war Mediterranean Italy like a fish out of water. And secondly, the freewheeling, sun-kissed soft tailoring of Jude Law’s Dickie Greenleaf.
Take a glance at the look book below and soak up the aesthetically pleasing costumed cast:
The Talented Mr Ripley Look Book
Dickie Greenleaf Style Focus
If you have seen the film, then you will know that many of the characters carry off a panache and elegance worthy of mention in the column inches of FashionBeans. However, I feel I should focus on the two key men in the movie, Tom Ripley and Dickie Greenleaf, because they represent two differing style ideals of the time and thus make for excellent examples. We begin by deconstructing the costume of Jude Law, and his character Dickie.
A definite disciple of the Italian way of life, Dickie has absorbed the culture and dress of Southern Italian men of the time. He’s seen in relaxed chino trousers with turn-ups and slim fitting short sleeve shirts, usually teamed with white pumps or loafers with a sight of mankle. Mix this with his golden tan, iconic moped and penchant for jazz culture and you have the archetypal Mediterranean Italian stereotype for that era.
To achieve this look today is not as difficult as you may imagine. The Italian way of dressing, as we’ve shown previously in our Milan Style Destination piece, is all about looking comfortable and elegant, putting to use simple colour combinations and soft fabrics. Key items that are needed to build your Dickie Greenleaf wardrobe include a good pair of light coloured chino’s, classic white pumps, brown leather loafers or slip-ons and a well-tailored summer blazer to just throw on over a simple short sleeve shirt or polo.
Dickie Greenleaf Look Book
Tom Ripley Style Focus
In the traditional sense, Matt Damon’s character, Tom Ripley, is not meant to be regarded as fashionable; particularly before he falls under Dickie’s influence. However, his college cut, American prep-school styling is on par with the Ivy League looks and inspired trends spotted throughout SS11.
In the early stages of the movie we see Tom Ripley at his 1950s Americana best. It is a stiffer, more authoritative look than that of Jude Law’s character. With black-rimmed glasses, button down collared shirts and classic chino trousers, he befits the American style of a classic era. In terms of styling, it is hard to look past Polo Ralph Lauren for a brand to purchase if you want to achieve this look. Key items for the Tom Ripley look are; a 1950s style short back and sides with side parting, black rimmed reading glasses, Ralph Lauren long sleeve shirt, plain cable knit jumper and classic fit chino trousers.
Tom Ripley Look Book:
Sartorial Debate
I would imagine, like my friends and I, there will be a split. You will prefer one look to another. Both are great looks in my mind, but it’s all a matter of sartorial inclination. Tom Ripley or Dickie Greenleaf? Which style whets your wardrobe appetite? Let us know! Also, put forward which movies you feel deserve a nod in the pages of FashionBeans.
Men’s Fashion Debate: Who’s To Say You Look Good?
Men’s Sicilian Style Inspiration
A Guide To: Men’s Italian Style
Taking Style Inspiration From Others
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What goes around comes around. As in life and also in fashion. I shall be digging my copy of The Talented Mr Ripley for some fashion inspiration, not that this article didn’t satisfy my daily fashion needs. Good work Grant!
Great article! This is a good idea if fb is looking to reach a wider audience. Film + Fashion = One happy reader! :)
The Dickie Greenleaf gets it for me. I’m yet to be sold on the Ivy League look – far too American. But the relaxed yet stylish mediterranean appearance matches Law’s character’s attitude perfectly.
If I could dress Greenleaf-esque all year round, I’d be a happy man. Unfortunately the South UK climate is somewhat different to that of Southern Italy.
What a great shout Grant! Not the most obvious choice, this film just oozes appeal and makes you wish you could dress in soft tailoring and pastels all year. Cappuccinos on cobbled streets and balmy summer evenings! I just bought the perfect blue woven loafers for this as well – argh!
Love the idea of the series too – before I just watched films, but now as an avid beaner I can’t help but notice the styles but also particularly the fit. Watching Thunderball last weekend, orange wetsuits aside, Bond looks so good in that film…
How weird. I’ve recently been rocking loads of nautical clothes (it’s bloody hot here in Japan!) and I have been thinking about this film a lot. Then low and behold, you write an article on it. All over the Dickie Greenleaf look; casual, smart, summery and timeless. Love it.
Fantastic article. Really liking some of the looks here.
If only we had the weather for the Dickie Greenleaf look in England, which is by far my favourite look. I adore the Italian style!
Good first choice of film. I love both looks.
Good choice of film, it oozes elegance and you’ve really inspired me to watch it again and in a new light.
My vote for next movie goes to American Psycho and the bold 80′s business style throughout. The book is littered with fashion monologue. It’s right up your street.
The shorts shirt combo where he’s sat on the wall is damn near perfect. I’d love to know where I could get a shirt like that. While the shorts you have picked out are good none if the tops have the nice detail and soft aesthetic of the film costumes. All in the details with these simple looks. Paul smith do some good polos made with pima cotton, not the ones with the logo, they’re crap
perfect MOOD!!!!!!
Great article. I would love to see one on James Bond!
I’d like to an Alfie v Alfie article. How (sartorially speaking) the original compares to that awful bloody remake.
I have been a reader of your site for a long time and have never felt the urge to respond until now, I really like this idea for a series of articles and I’d like to suggest a fantastic subject for your next one. Please consider the pathological womanizer and deflowerer of virgins Ryan Phillippe as “Sebastian Valmont” in “Cruel Intentions,” the 1999 re-imagining of Ridley Scott’s “Dangerous Liaisons.”
This film was a BIG deal for me as it was a period when I had moved away from deepest darkest Ilford in Essex and was living in Barcelona and I begun to notice that everything wasn’t Ralph Lauren button down Oxford shirts, loud brazen Hacket Polo shirts, slim Armani jeans and white Reebok Classics, I think you get the picture.
This character and the wonderfully sophisticated wardrobe paraded up and down the screen screamed at me and as far as I am concerned would make a fantastic subject for analysis here on Fashion Beans. From reading other articles on here it seems unanimous that “style” isn’t just the clothes you wear, it’s the how you wear them and the way you walk, talk and hold yourself and the confidence you exhume. To quote your contributing writer Will Colman “You should exude a careful confidence and have mastered the sweeping glance that makes women really want to be with you and men really want to be you.”
Vote Sebastian Valmont!
Simon
Like the poster above i hadn’t been compelled to ever post a comment before but after recently seeing the film for the first time i felt i had to! I have been thinking about the styles in the movie alot and although i like both, Dickie Greenleaf’s Italian style is the winner for me.
I live in Scotland so the climate here doesn’t allow us to wear what we choose alot of the time but when it’s nice i love putting on a nice pair of chinos with a shirt and maybe some white canvas boat shoes/trainers.
I’ve been thinking about getting a pair of brown shoes like the one’s you showed in both styles but what would you recommend wearing them with? Shorts? Chino’s? With cuff’s turned up or down?? The shoes i like in the second style are the mocassin’s with the white sole, Timberland do some nice one’s very similar to the shoe’s you’ve showed.
Keep up the great work!
Why is there not even the slightest mention of the original, Plein Soleil, in this article? Alain Delon is magnifique in it. Much more sartorially inclined than Jude Law or Matt Damon. I’d recommend to anyone who enjoyed The Talented Mr Ripley to get hold of the original, you won’t be disappointed.