Editor Introduction
Warren has joined the FashionBeans contributing team with a specific quest in mind – to rid the world of common fashion mistakes (or faux pas) men make on a daily basis. We are not going to insult your intelligence by breaking down why you should not be wearing socks with your sandals; anyone with an ounce of style will already know this. However, we are going to be tackling some key topics that will hopefully take your outfits to the next level.
Whether you consider yourself a style icon or a fashion newbie, hopefully this series will prove to be a valuable insight into oft overlooked areas, whilst also making you fully consider your purchases and outfit choices in the future.
Introduction
I once asked a friend of mine if he knew where the waist of his body was. He immediately – and foolishly – pointed to the abdominal area of his body; specifically where the hipbones are located. He then asked me why I had come up with such a seemingly odd question. “Just a random thought” I replied.
The real reason was that his jeans were a clear fifteen centimetres below his waistline, showing fifteen centimetres more of his chequered boxers than need be. My problem with this is not really a teenage bout of exploration and experimentation, but with the adults who, in reality, should know better. I don’t even have a problem with trousers being either slightly lower or above your average waistline but for some people, it seems that the sky is the limit – or the floor in this case.
The Faux Pas
When you visit a retail outlet and approach an [often not-too-concerned] attendant in search of a pair of trousers, they will usually ask you what your waist size is. I am yet to meet an attendant asking for my knee or naval circumference. The idea is that trouser manufacturers provide a universal unit of measurement to make sure that everyone understands which trousers fit; or rather, don’t. This also suggests that the proper way to wear trousers is on your waist.
However, on a daily basis, I see people who somehow do not comprehend this standard method, resulting in hideous monstrosities from both ends of the waist. On one part you have a group who have to broaden their knees in order to prevent their trousers from tumbling down, and on the other end you have people who end up with weird shapes in their groin and bottom areas, with fabric going in places where it definitely should not.
I could only think of three reasons why an individual would decide to wear trousers in such manner.
- Some people want to associate themselves with one culture or another. And that’s OK, really. But please keep in mind that extremes rarely go down well in society and that probably – in reality – you do not look like the person you are envisioning in your own mind.
- There are those people who have high hopes of attracting a mate and they think that wearing trousers in such a manner is the key to a successful coupling. We all know this is not the case because, unless you can pull off underwear as well as David Beckham can, you probably should leave it hidden.
- My final explanation is that some people simply couldn’t care less about what they are wearing and how they are wearing it. In this case, I’m sure they’re not reading this article so let me move on to the next section.
Wearing Trousers the Correct Way
First off, please make sure you know where your waistline is, because that is where you should wear your trousers. Slightly below or above is perfectly OK.
Many menswear sites will go to great lengths to ensure their clothes are being worn right. ASOS have an excellent graphical depiction identifying the waist:
That is where you should measure if you want trousers to have a perfect fit.
You now need to find a style that suits you most, and this can be slightly tricky. There are a lot of styles which mimic the look that you want to achieve without making you look like you’re trying too hard (or have no clue as to what you are doing). Not all trousers fit exactly the same. This depends on a number of factors such as material, cut, wash and make of the trousers. If you put your mind to it, you will succeed in finding that elusive pair which will define your look. It will often take years of work, occasional graft and the odd barter but in the long run, it’s a hefty reward.
Tailor the specifics around the appeal you want to achieve. For a laid back, relaxed look, try looser, carrot or worker trousers. The key point to bear in mind is that you should still wear your correct waist size! You do not need to oversize the waist in order to achieve a comfort fit through the leg – this is exactly why there are comfort or carrot fit trousers on the market.
If you are looking for a smarter, strait-laced look then a pair of straight, slim or skinny trousers are your best bet. It’s all about marrying the desired look to the clothes.
Wearing Trousers by Frame
If you are clueless as to which trousers are best for you, there are a few safe guidelines to go by.
Knowing what to look for and what to buy will save you time, money and embarrassment. Get to know your body shape well and stick to what works if you want to always look your best.
Tall Men:
Being tall can make you susceptible to being rather dull and boring with your trouser choices, due to you not wanting to attract attention to your long limbs. In reality, you should be embracing your height; you have the length to mix it up, and you should be wearing a blend of style and colours. Most people are not aware that solid block colours actually work extremely well in creating a divide from the top and bottom halves of your outfit, breaking up your long linear structure.
For those who are looking to take emphasis away from long legs, try to avoid skinny jeans because they will only draw the focus to your legs and make you look even taller than you are. However, for those that have learnt to embrace their height and slim frame – why not try a slim fit that will accentuate your natural gifts subtly?
Wearing wider or pleated trousers will add bulk to your shape, giving you a more proportioned silhouette. You can also experiment with bulky styles such as carrots, loose and worker fits – these shorten the length between your crotch and your feet, making your legs seem shorter and more proportioned. Another way you can break up the length of your legs would be to give the bottom hem of your trousers a couple of turns upwards. Not only is this a major trend this year, it will add some bulk to the bottom of your legs, taper the trousers to your leg shape, and give a definitive gap between the end of your trousers and your footwear – which helps make your feet look more proportioned as well.
Your length gives you room to wear accessories which also help to break the lines; wearing a belt and mid-length socks under your trousers will not only add personality and detailing, but helps add distinct sections to your long frame. Look for patterned socks, a wide belt and avoid ankle socks unless you are wearing shorts.
Short Men:
What you should avoid in this case are bulky trousers because they give you a stockier look which creates a shorter stature. So avoid carrot, drop crotch and cargo pants.
When choosing trousers try picking a slimmer fit, coupled with solid colours to give you a longer, leaner look. Another great way of creating the illusion of a longer leg is to pick a shoe colour as similar to your trouser colour as possible, so there is no definitive break in your leg line.
Slim profile trainers and shoes will work wonders for you when paired with trousers, as again they give the illusion of a longer leg. If you want to wear boots, then look for slim fitting versions and tuck your trousers in (with boots done up) to create a sweeping leg line all the way down.
As for accessories, picking out a narrow belt will create the illusion of longer legs and give you more length. The same idea works for socks – try avoiding bold or patterned socks (as they break up your leg line) and stick to solid muted colours and a thin material to make your legs look longer.
Large/Broad Men:
Wearing trousers that fit well is key. Avoid skinny trousers as they will take on your exact shape and contribute to an unflattering (often bulging) look.
Moreover, you should also avoid bulky trousers such as carrot fits or drop crotch, as they will make your middle body section look even bigger.
Not with any other body type has it been more important to stick to your waistline – by doing so, you can hide any excess weight you are carrying. Also, try straight fit trousers or jeans to give you an elongated shape; this will help hide your broader figure and create a leaner look.
No matter what your body type, visit shops that stock different brands and styles to source out those that are most befitting. It will take you some time to really find the best fit for your body shape but you will eventually find what works and may even notice that some brands work better for you than others.
If readers have any suggestions of brands that work well for particular body shapes, then please let us know in the comments section…
Current Season Trouser Styles
Loose / Carrot Fit Trousers
Skinny / Slim Fit Trousers
Accessories
Whether you feel the modern take on trousers just doesn’t cut it or you’re an in-between man – failing to find a pair that sit just right – it’s your responsibility to take it upon yourself to alter this.
Add an edge or stamp your individuality with statement accessories because, as far as trousers go, these are far too often overlooked. As men look to separate themselves from the herd, turning to the perfect belt or braces is not unheard of. The added consideration will instantly take your outfit up a notch, giving you something distinctively unique… style.
Conclusion / Sign off
It should be an obvious notion, but trousers have a basic unit of measurement which comes from the idea that the proper way to wear trousers is on your waist. Not fifteen centimetres below, nor fifteen centimetres above. I hope our quick, fairly blunt lampooning of a modern faux pas has nudged your wardrobe in the right direction.
Give us your thoughts and experiences about the topic, or share any tips in addition to this article below.
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This is my first post but I’ve been reading this site for over a year now, and it’s really helped me to change my style for the better. This is now the best place online to find advice like this for us regular guys who are not high fashion literate – which is like 99% of us!
This is a great article, especially relevant as many of the new style of jeans/chinos are meant to be worn below the waistline. Many of us are likely to forget that, and consequently the waistline has moved down a bit.
Of course, sadly this article may not be seen by those who really need to read it, those who persist in wearing their bottoms low-rider gangster style (I’ve even seen some miswear their trousers while wearing suits)! However, if they want to commit crime then their style is good, it means they are unable to effectively outrun the police.
Um I guess this will help someone. It mostly felt like you thought you were quoting rules to us. I agree that pants should fit, but like many people who give advice it comes from a good place but it comes off like it’s what you would like to see from everyone without taking into account that not everyone is trying to look like the people they see. If your a shorter guy and you like cargo pants and don’t care that they make you look shorter or a larger guy who doesn’t care that something makes him look bigger if he likes it. But I’m sure your other articles will be much more useful.
I think the rules are just general advice for people who might not be so comfortable with their own body type and want to be able to hide their insecurities and feel more confident.
That is the problem we always have with giving body type advice – not everyone fits into a particular stereotype and many are actually comfortable with who they are and their particular shape. For those, our general articles on fashion will help them develop their own style and personal taste.
This was merely a guideline and a problem a lot of men face without even realising. By getting people to think about how their trousers fit and where they are in relation to their waist, it can be one of those really subtle adjustments that can redefine how you look.
Hopefully, this series will provide something for everyone, otherwise it should be invaluable advice to fashion newbies to run alongside our basics series.
I did not aim to create a uniform method of how to wear trousers. As you said everyone is entitled to their own style preference and there is no foolproof outfit which fits the average man. In addition two trousers which fall under the same category may indeed have different fits.
Hopefully this article will just serve as an eye-opener to avoid mistakes and tiny details often overlooked – especially by those new to fashion.
Interesting article. I’m a short, slim fella and invest mostly in skinny-cut trousers or chinos. I’m a 28 waist. I quite like the carrot styles, as the leg often seems to be skinnier towards the bottom than regular skinny fit chinos. However, the waist on carrot styles appear to be completely different to that of skinny styles, even if they’re officially the same measurement. 28″ carrot styles, for me, are huge around the waist, yet the skinny styles are largely fine. This has only so far happened with Topman… is there a particular reason? Does a bigger waist come with the carrot fit?
Overall I prefer skinny jeans/chinos/trousers as they do make a smaller person such as myself look slightly taller. I just wish the skinny fit would be standardised. Chinos from Topman are always a bit wider at the top of the leg than the equivalent jeans. Again, is there a reason?
I’ve always found this too, unfortunately. Seems 32 inches by one brand is not the same 32 inches by another. Very irritating and an obstacles when shopping around and comparing garments.
This definitely happens, especially as you shop different brands – and in some cases the same brands, like you mentioned.
I think looser fits and those which give more room at the thigh maybe have to create a larger waist in order to give the trousers more proportion – I know for a fact that All Saints Iggy and All Saints Runner jeans for example have completely different waist sizes even though they might be labelled the same.
This is another key point for everyone to consider – you can’t just go around wearing a 32″ waist just because that is what you were measured at. You need to go up or down a size so they still fit your waist perfectly. It is a hardship, but again will make all the difference to your personal style.
Unfortunately I do not have an easy solution for you. I am a stickler for detail so will make a note of most brands sizing (tees, jeans, knits, outerwear) so I can buy my favourites conveniently online. It is a bit geeky (OK, a LOT geeky) and takes time, but it is worth it in the long run!
However, this type of consideration is what will separate the readers of this site from the general population – we will spend time working out and noting which brands and cuts fit us best as we care.
ASOS chinos are the worst sizing going; i’ve got 3 pairs because they’re the only nicely cut, cheap chinos in good colours but i’m sure the waist is 3-4 inches bigger than the label suggests for all of them, and they were the smalles available size.
Regarding some of the comments above, yes they may seem like solid rules that you don’t want to follow but as the saying goes – you’ve got to learn the rules before you can bend (or break!) them.
I thought the article was good, and it’s nice to know where to focus your attention when buying clothes. I’m a 30″ inside leg which can be a pain to find sometimes so I can get distracted by that, although more recently i’ve been going for all round fit and taking them up myself.
I did notice the ohter day a guy wearing plain black shorts under his joggers just so he could wear them ridiculously low. If he wasn’t wearing the shorts I guarantee you would have been able to see his johnson.
Glad I’m not the only one who has the problem with inconsistent sizing! I would totally do what you advise, Ben, the only thing is, most brands don’t seem to offer anything below a 28″ waist (though Topman certainly used to).
Drop Crotch trousers make me want to be ill.
As a bigger guy with a 36″ waist, I’ve found H&M’s trouser collection looks really well, especially a slim cut. Some of Burton’s chino’s are also have a good fit. What’s frustrating though is that Topman’s 36″ waist trousers are really small and for some reason they also do 36″ skinny fit trousers which are ridiculous.
Different brands have a different finesse to their products. The way they finish their products, their fabrics and cut techniques all contribute to how they ultimately fit the customer.
As Ben said above, keeping a list of brand sizes will make it rather easier if you like to pick different products from various brands.
Come on guys everyone knows that sizes vary dramatically from one store/brand to the next. They always have. I find Topman fits me spot-on although I’m an awkward 31 waist it is an inch out & works out 32 fits perfect with them where alot of brands 32 is simply an inch too big.
Oh & for the record all carrot ‘trousers’ (if I wanted to insult all that is fashion & just) should burn in a big pile outside One Directions HQ. As well as any one happy to wear them. DON’T.
I’ve always struggled to find a decent pair of long lasting well shaped jeans. I bought a pair of Ben Sherman Rod Jeans for £35 in the sale (Down from £65ish). They are named as skinny but come up more like a slim jean, these jeans are cut perfectly for me. I’m just under 6ft with long legs and bought a 32w 32l. These jeans are great, real long lasting and keep their shape well would definately recommend them.
I’ve always always had problems when picking trousers and I can never get it right. I have larger thighs than the average man, so when I look to get trousers of my waist size (32), they are too ‘tight’ around my thighs. This means that I have to get a bigger waist size to accommodate them. Any advice on what style of trouser would help?