Introduction
Out of the window of my study I can see two things – grey clouds and sheets of rain. I can also hear the faint sound of the wind whistling through the latch. These things indicate one thing to me; it’s time for an article on coats!
Let’s face it, sometimes guys really do drop the ball in this particular area of menswear. When the weather starts to take a turn for the worse it seems that we fall into two categories: The first decide that it’s time to bring back the old ‘put a hoody under anything’ look – be it a leather, denim or suit jacket. The others pull out a coat that, regardless of the money spent, looks like a hand me down from their grandfather – with the cuffs falling well pass their fingertips.
This is not what a stylish man should aspire for. When there’s a chill in the air, your coat is the first thing anyone is going to see (aside from your shoes) when they meet you. Consider it your sartorial handshake. So with that in mind, there are a few things you need to bear in mind when buying a coat.
Buying A Coat: Advice & Tips
The first is to grow up and get yourself a MAN coat. I’m talking about mature choices like topcoats, peacoats and duffle’s. Not only do they have a more versatile and classic style than going for some weird asymmetrical trench/waxed cotton bin bag, but if you decide to buy quality and get something in 80-100% wool, it will last you for a good four or five years and therefore stay relevant whilst your wardrobe evolves and changes.
The second thing to do is to decide what you will be using this coat for. If you need it for work then remember it will be layered over a suit jacket, so make sure you wear or bring the jacket with you when you go shopping. Nothing is more frustrating when you go to put your coat on for the first day of work and the cut is too slim to fit over your shoulders. In these cases you may need to go up a size to accommodate your suit or shop around for a cut that is designed specifically for it.
If you’re going to wear a coat more casually like with a shirt and cardigan, then you can afford to go with a slimmer silhouette that hugs your frame. As a general rule, I would say that topcoats are a wise choice for formal or work situations while peacoats and duffel’s are better suited for casual looks. This is because a topcoat will usually end a few inches above the knee, covering the suit jacket you’re wearing, while the others are usually cropped higher and will leave you with your blazer poking out the bottom. Not a desired look. With any coat you purchase you should be looking for something that is cut with high armholes and follows the lines of your body – it means you will have snug coat that doesn’t limit your movements.
Finally, you should then decide on what colour you want the coat to be. I would suggest, if this is going to be your one and only coat, to invest in monochromatic colours such as black, grey and navy because they will go with everything else in your wardrobe. It is normally said that darker shades such as charcoal grey, navy and black are more office appropriate but I tend to think of these as more guidelines than rules. The overcoat I own is in camel and looks perfect next to a black or navy pinstripe suit for formal occasions. Similarly, my deep navy peacoat is only ever worn casually with chinos, t-shirts and scarves and never looks too formal or dressy. It’s about finding what you’re comfortable with and then wearing the hell out of it.
If you already have a collection of well fitting coats, then it may be time to think about investing in a new one in an interesting colour. Check out some of the articles on the site that tell you how to wear a colourful piece of outerwear and then go for it!
Current Season Coats
Here are some of top picks for a coat this autumn/winter:
Duffels:
Peacoats:
Overcoats:
As for what you can wear them with? Whatever you want! Style is always what you make of it. Even though my overcoat is reserved for more formal affairs, there are still times I pair it with some simple jeans and a roll-neck jumper, and it works just as well. Play around, have some fun and then make it your own.
Until next time,
Matt Allinson
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I’ve been eyeing up that camel ASOS shawl pea coat for months, want that so much. I even wrote a piece on my blog about it
That said though, Chuck Bass had very nice camel double breasted trench coat on at one point in this week’s Gossip Girl, so i’m now quite tempted to look for a similar one.
matt. just bought a think knit polo neck. is it ok to wear a scarf loosly with a polo neck or a no go? cheers.
I’m in too minds about this one Vinny. One part of me thinks it’s fine because the scarf will add additional warmth. However, the other half of me wonders what kind of scarf it is? Because if it’s a thinly knit one then I’d say no because it has no practical reason to be there and would look a bit silly. However, a big old chunky one would be just fine.
What about overcoats that finish below the knee?
this should never happen. If you have an overcoat that ends below your knees then it doesn’t fit you and needs to tailored.
Vin-dog, you should be confident enough to wear what you feel, don’t let others tell you what to wear
your on the wrong site then big dog! i was not asking but rather getting an opinion.
Matt,
I’m aware that there is a separate article covering parkas but am curious nonetheless: whereabouts on the scale of ‘manliness’ would you put a parka? Since there are so many styles out there let’s assume I’m talking about the typical sort with fishtail and fur-lined hood.
Um, I often find ‘manliness’ comes down to the man himself. I’m a firm believer that if you wear some with confidence you can pull anything off (watch out for an article on that soon). But I think a parka is pretty manly, not as manly as a duffle coat, but still pretty manly.
That’s true, I should have thought given that comment a little more thought. I think a further point that should be made (maybe in a follow-up article) is what should be worn alongside these coats. All too often I see someone wearing a decent pea coat but ruining it with ‘dad jeans’ and Reebok trainers while expecting the coat alone to make them look something special. IMO just because a coat is deemed ‘versatile’ doesn’t mean you can be lazy with the rest of the outfit.
Matt, I was looking at a navy and grey wax mountain jacket, by Suit. £155 from Urban Outfitters, is this a decent investment? I don’t need anything formal, but don’t want to spend that much on a coat that will stay in style for just one winter.
Let me know what you think of it?
I think it’s a cool jacket and waxed is always a good bet for staying dry. However, I’m not too sure about the hood or how versatile it would be in your wardrobe next year or even the year after. And for 155 quid I want to buy something I knew could be used again next winter so I wont have to spend the same amount for the new season.