Introduction
It might seem strange to be considering a wintery item such as the military boot during whatever little summer sunshine we Brits get, but there is a good reason for doing so. Just as designers are always looking forward and are even now showcasing their spring/summer 12 looks, so should we look toward the shifting of the seasons. The summer sales are now all but done, the autumn collections are appearing and it will soon be time for those of you whom did not embrace the shorts and boots look to consider releasing your cold weather footwear choices from whatever dark and murky confinement you have them stored.
Now I apologise profusely to anyone who has been made miserable by the mere mention of colder weather but as we should all know, shoes are an investment piece; money should be spent and careful consideration should be employed. After all, planning ahead never hurt anyone.
Is It Time For Change?
The military boot has been with us for a number of seasons now, of course remaining a staple of the exceedingly popular military trend but also permeating the mainstream fashion consciousness. They are the perfect example of easy fashion; a style that can be worn with almost anything and by almost anyone.
But as we discussed before in my article on Style Overload this popularity and universal nature does not necessarily bode well; they lack that specific individuality that many look for in their style; as with so many other items they suffer from bad association and stereotyping and a great many people just don’t like them. It is here then that we should look to the alternatives – the styles that might just mark you out as the individual.
Military Boot Alternatives Look Book

So we’ve touched on individuality; by investing in an alternative style of boot you are almost certainly going to have something a lot more unique than a most other people, but it would also be fair to say that you are also investing in something a little more subtle and timeless. You want a style that fits in that all important capsule wardrobe, and when you consider the current trends; work wear, Americana, Navajo, as well as the focus on heritage and mixing traditional classic looks with more utilitarian fabrics, styles like the work boot and desert boot become all the more inviting.
This is not to say that the military boot is dead, far from it; the military trend has still got time to run and more to give, especially as we enter the autumn, where its thicker knits, trench coats and emphasis on layering begin to replace the shorts and light knitwear we have been forcing ourselves to wear despite our generally terrible weather. They also still have a role to play in the developing trends such as biker, as well as with people pushing the style further by wearing them in new ways; as with anything this popular it takes time for the general population to move onto something new.
The Alternative Boots Look Book
So how might we wear these alternatives to the military boot? Below are 3 examples; with each one I chose the boot and built the outfit up from there. Personally I believe all outfits should be built from the ground up; shoes really are that important.
Look 1
The work or work style boot is but one of many alternatives. It is perhaps one of the most obvious and easiest choices as the construction and shape of both these and the military boots are remarkably similar – what you can wear with one you could easily wear with the other. However, the work boot does retain more of a casual edge and might well be better suited to looks of a more rough and ready nature; think flannel, chambray or denim shirts, straight or slim cut indigo denim and chinos or the ever timeless white tee and leather jacket.
With this look I wanted to create a sense of rugged simplicity. There is little point in over complicating a style that is designed to look practical and robust – simple chinos with classic accessories will serve almost any casual purpose. What I have put together is a safe choice but this doesn’t not mean that you cannot incorporate colour; by choosing a tan or some other muted tone with your boot, you can feel confident in using your bright, block colours. Try mixing bolder coloured chinos with a simple white or Breton style tee, framing your statement piece within two anchoring items. Or mix pastel colours together; try some lighter coloured chinos with some softer washed look tees (I like a good washed raspberry shade) to achieve some very workable end of summer looks.
For those of you who prefer a more structured and formal style, again keep it simple. Try dark wash denim jeans, a crisp white or gingham shirt and a good quality piece of knitwear (a grey v-neck jumper for example) – the perfect rough yet sophisticated man about town.
One point I would stress in particular is to tuck your trousers into your boots or at least roll them up, there is little point in paying for the extra material and then keeping it hidden.
Look 2
I believe that if you are going to wear brogues then they must be worn well, there is nothing in the fashion world that irritates me more than a brogue ruined by an awful outfit; to wear incorrectly is to commit sacrilege, and risk my displeasure.
The Vibram sole on this offering from Grenson is certainly one that will divide opinion; at first I was very much against them but the more I see it, particularly in boot form, the more I wish I could afford to add them to my collection.
With this look I wanted to mix heritage brands with modern styling. The Grenson brogues and waxed Barbour jacket cover the former, whilst the latter is introduced through the details. The white scarf is a good way to add another splash of colour that coordinates with the white and red stripe shirt (gingham would work perfectly here) but doesn’t shout too loud, and by rolling up the jeans a little to reveal more of the boot you add that quintessential modern twist; altering the silhouette and shape of an outfit a surprising amount and of course, you’ve spent the money so you want to show them off.
Should you wish to be a little more Avant garde with your use of this style of boot, try mixing them with tailored items. Perhaps try a pair of dark, slightly cropped trousers and an unstructured jacket, stay with a shirt, switch the scarf for a neckerchief and have a pair of classic wayfarers at the ready for that real bohemian look.
Look 3
With this selection of boot I would suggest releasing your inner dandy. An option that I had never previously thought of before researching this article, I have found myself very much drawn to the style. It is certainly a look that might raise a few eyebrows and similarly to the Vibram brogues, divide opinion – but it would most definitely mark you out as an individual.
I would point out that my intention with this look would be for jeans to be worn tucked into boots, so it becomes a battle to avoid the country gent equestrian enthusiast image; definitely Leave the gilets at home. This style is best worn by those fashionable men of the continent, so think casual tailoring; crisp shirts, structured blazers and perhaps a knitted tie for a nod to the preppy trend.
As you can see I have chosen white jeans, a daring choice both in terms of practicality and colour, the reason being that they contrast against and bring out the best boots; an outside style such as this does to a point, need to be flaunted. You could of course keep it a bit more subtle and use them to create something of a biker inspired look, choose a black pair of boots, slim black jeans and away you go.
Current Alternative Boot Styles
Conclusion
The military boot is far from done, but change doesn’t hurt; there is a wide range of alternatives which you can wear in much the same way but will clearly give you the advantage in individuality. This variety affords you the opportunity to experiment with what you wear and how you wear it, just by tucking your trousers into a style of boot that others might not have considered is a very easy way to mark yourself out.
The above looks are just a taster of what can be achieved and I will repeat once more that I believe all outfits should be considered from the ground up. Get your footwear right and the rest will follow.
So let’s hear what you guys think:
- Has the military boot run its course?
- Do you think that it still has a place in changing fashions I.E the biker trend?
- What are your thoughts on the alternatives? Would you consider them?
- Would you agree that footwear is the most important part of an outfit?
Let me know in the comments below.
Will
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The military boot has more to give, but only if the individual has more to give with it. Not doing the laces up and tucking your jeans in (always hated that look) has definitely run its course. It’ll be interesting to see the biker trend, and if they can get a new twist on what’s already there.
As for alternatives, I’ve been wearing desert boots and chelsea boots for years now and frankly quite bored with them, but I think the brogue boots (especially Grenson ones) are really quite nice. I recently got a pair of conker brown toe cap boots that are very smart, similar to a military style in a way, but I haven’t seen anyone wearing anything like them here in the UK (got them in Germany). And yes footwear is extremely important, and definitely the piece that pulls an outfit together. It’s horrid to see the amount of really nice looks people are using, but ruining them with knackered converse or awful high heels that don’t fit right.
Brogue boots are very versatile, they go with almost everything – jeans, chinos, even a nice pair of corduroy trousers – i would consider them an investment as a good pair of loakes or grenson will last a long time, but im not keen on the vibram sole (maybe it will grow on me).
Desert boots and suede boots are v.nice, but being suede i personally feel they aren’t practical for the English winter, but ive seen some lovely black leather “chukka boots” which would be a great alternative for the winter.
My personal preference are brogue boots, they are exceedingly versatile, although I intend to purchase a pair of suede chukkas from grenson, I think suede is still fine in the winter, you just have to wear thick socks and avoid wet or rainy days.
As I said in the article I wasn’t to sure about vibram soles either, but they are definitely a grower.
I like high leg boots. Men used to wear them long before women ever did. Whilst you have shown them on this site in a military style, they could be produced with a civilian look . With flat heels our legs would be warm as toast in the winter.
I think the military boot is too strong to be passed over or replaced by another boot for a good few seasons. It also fits directly into the biker trend, so if that fully takes off I can only see the two supporting each other. I personally can’t wait for it to be cold/wintery enough to bring my military boots back out.
I love the Grenson boots, the idea that I could wear them with a suit and they’d look like regular brogues is really appealing.
Although I think if I was going to go for a new boot this A/W I’d probably want these – http://www.llbean.com/llb/shop/31179?feat=592-GN1.
Lots of people into their Brogues it would appear! This pleases me! Now, would anyone consider trading in their military boots for the worker styles?
I like the look of some of the brogue boots I’ve seen (especially this pair from Zara http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/uk/en/zara-W2011/118188/481531/COMBAT%2BBOOT), but I’ve never really found them to match my style.
I’ll be on the look out for something closer to riding boots, or boots with buckles and straps rather than laced military boots which I already have a decent pair of. Actually, the boots in the top centre of the look-book would probably fit an outfit I’ve almost finished building upon a wool coat I got a few years back, but I’m not sure I’d want any quite that tall. Still, leather and mid-calf are my favourites for winter.
I really like the Grenson boots and can’t wait to get some. Also not sure about the vibram soles, so I think I will go for the Fred boot with reinforced commando style sole, which I guess touches on the military and even hiking boot.
Speaking of hiking boots, you didn’t mention them but I’ve seen a few nice ones around (really like these http://www.my-wardrobe.com/nicholas-deakins/chocolate-hiking-mod-ckukkas-641590) but not sure if it’s worth investing in boots you can only wear in the winter/autumn. At least the brogue boots could be used with a suit.
Great piece btw!
I never really got into the trend for military boots, owning two pairs for no more than a month last year before selling them on. I realised that other styles looked far more exciting. Still, I won’t be surprised if military boots remain in the limelight for a bit longer. Simplicity is the key strength of that type of boot, as over-embellished versions end up being garish.
Brogue boots are my favourite alternative out of the ones listed above. The Trickers x Norse Projects boot in navy with red soles strikes my fancy in particular. I’m also all for vibram and wedge soles since the clean lines are an even greater contrast to most boots out there, especially military ones.
Also, I’m rather surprised that Dr Martens did not make the list. Perhaps the silhouette is too similar to those of military boots?
I must say I felt Doc martens were a little too similar to normal military boots. Personally I’m really not a fan of them either. However! They are still a worthy option but I think they are a much harder to work with than perhaps work boots.
Good to hear that there is more support out there for the vibram sole though!
I share that sentiment. Something about the chunkiness just says ‘no’ to me. Then again, you did include a pair of Dr Martens in the list of alternatives, although they’re a departure from the usual design (those are the 150th anniversary boots if I’m not wrong).
Also kudos on including Sebago’s Lighthouse boots. My favourite aspect of that design is that it can act as a more streamlined and less chunky version of those Red Wings that are popping up everywhere.
I love Chelsea boots – they are such a classic, originating in early Mods in Chelsea adopting a riding boot to go with their sharp suits. I especially like the point toe boots, I have a pair of black and a pair of brown Chelsea boots.
I would really like it if someone could tell me what the boots pictured at the top of the article are. The ones used to advertise.
Thanks
Those would be a pair of b store crepe soled boots as worn on Street Etiquette: http://streetetiquette.com/2011/02/26/footwear-etiquette-crepe-sole-2/
I’m going to reading festival, and i was wondering if you guys think that wearing desert boots with slightly rolled up jeans would look slightly “clunky” or would it work?
Love the post, Will. Its a sweet alternative from the expected.
WHERE CAN I GET THE BOOTS THAT ARE IN THE TOP PICTURE PLEASEEEEEE HELP
what boots are shown in the main picture at of the top article? or anything very similar?
Those would be a pair of b store crepe soled boots as worn on Street Etiquette: http://streetetiquette.com/2011/02/26/footwear-etiquette-crepe-sole-2/
H | 25TH AUGUST 2011