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Introduction
Continuing on from my last article on building upon your wardrobe full of essential menswear pieces, let’s tick something off the list that allows you to cover three different bases in one go. By that, I mean the tweed three-piece suit.
But why this particular suit? Why in tweed? And, most certainly, why a three piece?
Well, the answers to those questions are very simple. With the weather seemingly becoming colder every day, you should be making the transition from your spring/summer wardrobe into a beautiful and well curated autumn/winter version. So out with the linens, cottons and merino wools and in with the flannels, Oxford cloths and beefy wools.
The same rule should be applied to your suits. The cotton versions you’ve been rocking just won’t cut it as the temperature drops, so you need start investing in wool or flannel suits to help see you through these rough and windy times. However, what are the chances that any of us can actually do that? Getting winter versions of all my suits would set me back a pretty penny, let me tell you. A pretty penny that I don’t have.
But what we can do is buy one suit that keeps us warm but is versatile enough to be used in other looks. Tweed covers the warmth part and the three piece handles the versatility.
The Tweed Three Piece
Now I’m sure plenty of you are wary of tweed and for good reason too. Most of my childhood memories revolve around being put in this scratchy material every winter and feeling like I was wearing some sort of Kevlar. However, in the last few years, tweed has been reinvented and reworked on the runways into a far softer, kinder material – without losing its insulating characteristics.
From a sartorial perspective, tweed suits in grey, navy or brown are such solid statement pieces that they can’t be overpowered; feel free to pair them with bold plaid dress shirts or a strong wool club tie and matching pocket square.
But why get a three piece suit? Well, put simply, it’s because every man needs at least one. Like the double breasted blazer, it’s the perfect item to pull on when you need to really step up your game. As long as you nail the fit (we’re talking high armholes on the jacket, slim trousers and a snug waistcoat) you can’t go wrong and when you put it on, it will feel like you’re wearing your very own battle armour.
As there are not that many 3 piece versions online at the moment, I have also included a selection of tweed two piece suits that will upgrade your work wear wardrobe, whilst still offering versatility with use as separates:
How To Wear
The best thing about a three piece suit is its versatility – you now have three items that can be worn separately or in different combinations:
Option 1
Why not just leave the jacket at home? A grey tweed trouser and waistcoat combination is perfect for almost any situation. Pair it with a red plaid button down shirt and a pair of brown double monkstrap shoes and you are ready to go.
Option 2
What can’t you put a pair of tweed trousers with? They look great casually with a white v-neck t-shirt and a black leather jacket, or can be dressed up easily with a complimenting shirt and tie combination.
Option 3
A tweed jacket and a pair of dark denim jeans is a match made in heaven. Pair with a simple white Oxford shirt, brown suede brogues and a striking pocket square to really wow a crowd.
Option 4
Put them all together. If you want to have a three piece that stands out from the crowd, invest in a navy or tobacco brown. Otherwise stick with a mid grey tone. Then wear whatever you want with it! Like I said, it can’t be overpowered so anything is game – stripes, checks, bold colours and autumnal patterns. Try on a few different pieces and find out what works for you.
So there you have it guys, another piece to consider adding to your ever-growing collection, just in time for what is bound to be a cold winter.
Let me leave with one final tip; with your suits that are made from heavy duty materials such as tweed or flannel, save yourself some money on the dry cleaning and simply hang it in the bathroom when you shower. The steam will work any creases out naturally. Hopefully the money you save can go towards next weeks piece!
Until next time,
Matt Allinson
Men’s Fashion Basics - Part 61 - Coloured Denim
Men's Fashion Basics - Part 59 - The Double Breasted Jacket
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I’m investing in a load of tweed this winter. Also got some thick houndstooth stuff from ASOS which i think works just as well. I’m currently in to black derby shoes with contrast leather sole, brown tweed trousers, and a grey ls polo style thin wool jumper, you can chuck on the matching jacket if you’re chilly. Looks a bit lock stock, and all girls love eddy.
I’d be interested in an article for gloves/scarves/hats that you can pull off with a suit, because it’s nearly time for this stuff and i find anything but a silk scarf looks out of place with a suit, and provide no thermal insulation at all, i’d love to know what could replace it, because i’m not one to make a suit more casual, the boots i see people wearing with tweed trousers that have orthapaedic style soles make me feel sick.
About the last tip, another good way to steam a suit wrinkle free is buying a steam generator, this is basically an iron on beast mode with lots of steam shooting out of it. this means i dont even have to iron my shirts, i just hang them up and steam them, but you still have to iron the collar.
Any thoughts on what you could wear the waistcoat with by itself, or maybe this should be avoided?
you should definately wear the waistcoat by itself. Wear it with some indigo jeans, a striped blue shirt and some brown brogues maybe? Or you maybe mix up some other tailoring? Maybe some black suit trousers and a white t-shirt. I find that a grey tweed waistcoat really anchors patterns such as plaid and stripes amazingly as well working well with knit ties.
Thanks Matt. I’ve a pair of dark khaki chinos I thought might work with a grey or brown waistcoat, and I appreciate your thoughts as well. Cheers chum!
I love the tweed always have done. I’ve had a tweed blazer which is herringbone charcoal grey, is it good to mix tweed colours? Ie grey with brown maybe or will this be too much? Also tweed trousers with suede desert boots, what’s your verdict?
I think rugged beefy materials always work really well together so tweed and suede always looks great together and also appropriate and seasonal. However, I think if you’re going tweed up top, unless it is with the same coloured suit like a 3p, then maybe go for a different material but still as rugged, like some brown pin wale cords or heavy duty cotton chinos.