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Turtle Power
Turtleneck jumpers have long been in and out of men’s fashion, but could this be the year they turn from passing fad to a true essential for the modern day male? Whether you like it or not, X-Factor is back on UK television, and even though it might be funny to laugh at the deluded wannabes that grace its stage, my mind has been elsewhere when watching the show; namely focussed on the sharp style of both Gary Barlow and Dermot O’Leary. Who knew? Both of these gentlemen are well loved here in Britain, and it seems like their personal style has jumped a level over the past couple of years.
Dermot has particularly stood out for me over recent weeks. He seems to have a real penchant for turtlenecks at the moment, and although I had heard and seen rumblings of the item becoming a trend piece for autumn/winter, I had no idea that they would take off this fast. Indeed, it seems they are already becoming popular within this transitional period between the end of summer and autumn, as none other than the ever dapper Will Young also sported one on BBC breakfast the week after:
Today we will take a quick look at where this trend came from, which design houses were the biggest backers of it, and how you could integrate it into your wardrobe this year.
On The Runways
When doing research into who was championing the turtleneck for autumn/winter, the amount of variety and mix of designers pushing the piece was staggering. Below you can see catwalk images from Roberto Cavalli, Maison Martin Margiela, Calvin Klein and Hermes but the key is how they all are utilising the turtleneck in the same way – layered under smart tailoring and refined pieces such as trenches and wool coats. Even Margiela, who is known for more avant garde fashion forward designs, utilised bold coloured turtlenecks underneath classic tailoring and gentlemen overcoats.
A key point to take notice of is the amount of colour variation we are seeing for the new season. No longer does your turtleneck have to be just navy or black, there is everything from vivid greens, to bold burgundy and the colour of the season; orange. They have also become much thinner and slim fitting. The style we saw most on the catwalk was the fine-gauge weight knit, which is much more versatile and enables you to layer underneath items such as blazers for work, or even thicker knit cardigans or sweaters [shown in main article image above]. Think the same weight as an All Saints merino wool knit and you are close to the thickness you want.
How To Style
Now, as we mentioned above, the KEY turtleneck to add to your wardrobe this year would be the fine-gauge lightweight knit version in a slim fit. You can layer this underneath blazers, trench coats or wool overcoats easily, and the neck line adds some intrigue and a modified silhouette when your coat or jacket is done up to the top.
However, for those of you looking for something warmer and more of a statement, you could opt for a thick knit version with cable or pattern detailing (most probably Fair Isle). These are no longer ‘unfashionable’ and I particularly like the marbled version by Cheap Monday in the product picks below. You should use them in the same way you would your thick knit jumpers and sweaters; don’t over dress them and instead let them become the focal point; pair with chinos, jeans or trousers, and then finish with a simple overcoat or jacket. These are simple fashion looks which can be thrown on in an instant.
The Look Of The Season
The key look of the season is suitable for most offices, events or formal occasions. The turtleneck paired with your suit is fast becoming one of the most popular alternatives to a bog standard shirt and tie combination. There is something so effortless and refined about pairing a turtleneck with a classic blazer – it is almost continental in its aesthetic. When you think about the stylish men of Paris or Milan, you could see them wearing this combination to work with some loafers, and pulling it off with ease. Why not try substituting your shirt for a lightweight turtleneck this autumn for one working day each week?
If you are not willing (or could not get away with) wearing a turtleneck to work, how about just layered underneath a great blazer and paired with slim jeans or chinos? Take a look at the look book below to see some amazing examples of guys who have pulled this style off perfectly. If you are wearing a bold coloured blazer, then tone down your turtleneck and anchor your outfit with a navy, grey or black version. If you are utilising your timeless navy blazer, then add a pop of colour with a beautiful burgundy or orange piece.
Finally, you don’t have to dress your turtleneck up. If you want something casual but refined for a weekend, then they look great on their own paired with simple jeans or chinos, whilst they also look just as good underneath casual outerwear such as denim jackets, varsity jackets or even leathers.
Men’s SS13 Fashion Trend: Safari
Men’s SS13 Fashion Trend: Ethnic Inspired
Men’s SS13 Fashion Trend: Denim
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I like the turtle neck look but unless you have a really chiselled face it always makes it look round, or it does to me anyway. Is there anything I could do to detract attention away from my jaw area in particular when wearing one? Good article =)
Almost definitely a look that i too shall be investing in this season should the penny situation allow.
As to your question Dalton – I would suggest sticking to a style with a slimmer neck, avoid the chunkier collars so you maintain a clear division between head and body, a tighter neckline will also frame your neck more and ensure your head doesn’t look like its just been stuck on.
Otherwise invest in a more statement item in a brighter colour or with a stand out pattern to draw more attention onto the garment itself.
Ok cool, thanks will =)
I have to disagree with will colman, I have a lack of jaw line, also lacking the ability to grow facial hair, but I digress, A tight neck can cause a little double chin, I have a thin barbour roll neck that is quite loose and looks much better than a tight farah one I tried on once.
This is the farah one http://www.unionclothing.co.uk/Knitwear/Farah_Vintage_Danby_Roll_Neck_Jumper
Great article. Although its popularity has diminished a little recently and it has even become a comedy or novelty piece to some, I firmly believe the turtle neck is timeless. A slim fitting turtle neck is one of the smartest looking pieces a man can wear, on account of its simplicity and sleek appearance. You’ve also highlighted how versatile they can be. I like the idea of wearing one
I’ll be taking some time to look at each of the items featured and making a purchase decision this week. I was recommended John Smedley’s fine knits by a friend and was going to get on this week but this article has broadened my scope a bit. Thanks.
Great article.
I’m a big fan of the turtle neck. However last winter when I wore one with a pea coat my friends did say I looked like a U Boat captain.
Haha, I love the comparisons that people often make when they aren’t used to someone looking a particular way – received a couple myself but I think U-Boat Captain is pretty funny!
Is this something that should be avoided if you have a more muscular/athletic frame?
I tried this look a fair few years ago with slim fit thinner items, and thicker winter items and both looked wrong. I think it thickens the neck too much. The slim fit also had me feeling a bit “on display” as they seem to hug the figure a lot.
Any suggestions?
For the more muscular frame I’d play it safe with a chunky, knitted turtle neck (like the pink number that is show with the runway looks) and then wear under a jacket/blazer.
However as X-Factor Dermot shows, a body-hugging turtle-neck can really work for the broader male. For further suggestions, check out ‘X-Men: First Class’ for Michael Fassbender wearing a turtle neck like a pro. Our article to the film is here: http://www.fashionbeans.com/2011/x-men-looking-first-class/
I’ve been looking for some for aages after the Hermes Spring/Summer ’11, paired with shorts and sandals as a summer look, for some reason i can’t really take them seriously in Winter. They do look good, i don’t think i can get the image of my Dad wearing them, it just puts me off personally. Good article.
Great article! One of my favourite trends for AW11, classic nautical masculinity, and works great with smart looks.
I’ve just bought a nice, fairly thick knit turtleneck from Uniqlo’s Jil Sander collab. It’s versatile, of course, but it’s difficult to wear because it’s black and I’ve got quite a pale skin tone and blonde hair. Would you happen to have any suggestions to kind of balance it so that it doesn’t wash me out so much?
i live in deepest devon, fashion is slow down here!
i love the roll/turtle neck look, where online can i get the fine gauge, slim look varieties??
Thank you.