Milan’s menswear spectacular has just passed by and it was certainly a fantastic week. Highlighted by the wonderful array of colours that were on show, the runways threw up some things I didn’t expect to see from an Autumn/Winter collections (I’m thinking of a banana yellow puffa jacket from Burberry).
So here is a quick round-up and my personal review of the best menswear shows for Fashionbeans, plus a few hand selected pieces you can get your mitts on this season from each designer.
With Cliff Richard on the sound system and real rain in the finale, the Burberry showcase was a spectacular. Compared to Autumn/Winter 2010/11, the collection consisted of a variety of bright colours, with a decrease in the number of their iconic trenches and an increase in the variety of coats available. The first look of the show was bang on trend, using a plaid check coat and oversize bag. Top designer at Burberry Christopher Bailey made a decision to focus the collection around different coats for each individual season. Looks consisted of a vast variety of skinny pants, suits and knitwear combined with furry doeskin. The coats that were on show are suitable for all the varying types of elements we are prone to in the UK – from rain, to wind and snow. Bright colours were seen in an orange duffel and a pea green military coat, but also consisted of tweeds and camels which we saw a rise of in 2010. The coats and jackets were fur-collared for that Burberry luxury appeal, again building on the similar shearling trend we saw at the end of 2010.
The finale of the show was incredible. With only Alexander McQueen daring to do so before him, Bailey created a full-on catwalk rainstorm. This links directly from the inspiration of the collection: Bailey found an ad campaign in the archives of the Burberry library consisting of looks in every different weather condition and decided to play upon it. Impressive.
Bryan Ferry’s leopard rock glamour of the seventies has become an underlying source of inspiration in several menswear collections over the years, but Dolce & Gabbana exploited Ferry’s personal style in their latest collection, also being the figure on the icon t-shirts from the Italian fashion house. The theme of the collection is called Sartoria Eccentrica and focuses around the re-working of classic tailoring, aimed at the younger generations. This was evident within the collection, which consisting of low rise, multi pocketed pants that are very on trend features for the younger male.
The collection has an essence of the East-End – with Kreuger stripes and trilbies – and the combination of double-breasted checked jackets (big suit trend for 2011) with low rise pants gives a younger, quirkier edge to classic tailoring. Apart from a couple of sequinned jackets towards the end, the collection was very rough and ready, aiming to appeal to the younger generations and reinforcing the whole workerwear and outdoors trends we have seen over the past year.
The finale consisted of the usual mass march along the catwalk, with all models wearing a black velvet jacket and distresses Dolce & Gabbana jeans [main article image]. The collection has an exciting, invigorating feel to it. New visions and twists on classic tailoring are not always welcomed, but it certainly is where Stefano and Domenico are concerned.
Note: You can view the whole show on the D&G official website: CLICK HERE
Having not used any inspiration from the Jil Sander archive for his collection, Raf Simons’ fall collection was one full of subtle colour and square-cut suits. The only reference to previous collections was Simon’s womenswear spring collection. The collection consisted of parka hoods with pink linings and vivid yellows creeping out of charcoal coloured outerwear. Experimental yet eloquent.
Previous seasons chunky parkas also made an encouraging return, building upon their increasing popularity in 2010 and reinforcing the 60s trend we are seeing in early 2011. The previously mentioned square-cut suits were high closing and three buttoned. Having taken inspiration from Amish-cultured attire, these Amish details were present in the pants, jackets and tops. An enjoyable show to watch.
Leading figure at Italian fashion giant Prada, Miuccia Prada delivered a great show during the week. A brown suede jacket with a maroon diamond pattern and an emerald green mock turtleneck were amongst the best pieces from the A/W11 collection. Oversized square bags were also a highlight. In the past Miuccia has made it known that she has a dislike for velvet, but perhaps she has since softened her stance a little bit as textures (in particular suede) were heavily featured in the collection. The three buttoned jackets featured gave an essence of ‘businessman’ about the collection but that businessman certainly knows how to dress well in head to toe Prada.
Two messages were delivered during the Royal family-inspired Vivienne Westwood show: firstly climate change and the seriousness of it, secondly about how she is very good at designing collections for men. With the Royal wedding in mind, Westwood designed a collection that gives off a British school-boy image, inspired by the meeting of Prince William and Princess-to-be Kate Middleton at St. Andrews university, Scotland. The clothes consisted of baggy-jean hoods and loose pants held up by suspenders.
Of course Westwood likes to put her own stamp onto the show, and each model had red lipstick on. The best part of the collection was the close-to-traditional suits – only different to tradition tailoring by use of different buttons and baggy trousers. Westwood said after her show, “With royal marriage in the air, who would you choose to be your bridegroom? Come on, girls, our catwalk is your chance to dream.”
Having gone into business 100 years ago making leather gloves, Trussardi founder Dante Trussardi has dressed the best of the best across the world throughout his career, and it still remains true today. The idea of the centenary show was to show leather in every way possible. A white cotton t-shirt that was in fact white chamois leather, and a parka coat in camouflage print that looked translucent with the fineness of the leather. Every single piece in the show was made of leather. Impressive. The more usual and ordinary pieces pointed towards the future and where the brand is heading. The event celebrated the best Italy has to offer, and of course the incredible fashion. A very good show.
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