Introduction
Spring: that awkward time full of awkward weather. Sunny showers? I don’t want to burst that smiley weather girl’s little bubble, but that certainly is an oxymoron if ever did I hear one. Unless you are about to break into a spout of photosynthesis (where my GCSE biology lessons tell me that sunlight and rainfall are essential), the weather of the upcoming months can notoriously be a bit of a pain. However, the fashionable males amongst us never let the change in weather change the way we think about our style, and that means that spring is as important as any other season to be considering dressing appropriately for our body types. We are all aware of some of the season’s most regular pieces – trenches, denims, leathers, roll-ups, crops and umbrellas galore – but the big question is: which are the right styles for me?
Tall & Skinny
For those lucky enough to have the model-esque tall, skinny physique, there comes many benefits in life. However, being tall can have its disadvantages as the slim giants amongst us run the risk of looking lanky or disproportionate. Fortunately, there are several items that will help you avoid spaghetti-arms and stick-like legs, and the spring is a perfect season to be testing them out.
Chinos
Chinos, rolled up at the ankle, are perfect for the taller gentleman. They accentuate the length of the legs without hugging too tightly or flapping too loosely (even the ‘skinny’ options seems a bit looser than your average skinny jean). They are great for breaking up the linear structure of your body; rolling up the bottoms help to create a ‘break’ between trouser and shoe, which stops the onlooking eye from gliding down those dangly limbs.
Chinos are also a great opportunity to inject some colour into your wardrobe; bold, solid colours are perfect for adding an additional ‘break’ in flow between your torso and legs, and are great for fitting into that spring colour palette. Pair with pretty much anything you like, but if you’re opting for the colourful bottom half then make sure you anchor with neutrals up above!
Top Tip for Body-Type:
Push up your sleeves to the elbow to break up the structure of any lanky arms, whilst adding additional bulk to the upper-arm muscles.
Helpful articles:
- Spring/Summer Fashion Essential: Coloured Trousers
- How To Wear The Right Colours For Your Skin Tone
- Dressing For Your Body Type This Summer: Tall and Skinny
A Larger Figure
Whereas the taller, slimmer figure should concentrate on breaking up the structure of their body, the larger figured gentleman should do the opposite. The age-old tip that black is slimming is no lie, but spring is a time for being bright and bold – so why should the larger amongst us have to suffer? There are plenty of other ways to slim down your appearance (and yes, vertical stripes are a part of the team).
The Blazer
Blazers are great for any body type this time of year, but can especially help to slim a larger guy. Opt for a lighter material (avoiding thicker fabrics such as tweed which will add bulk and may be too hot as the temperature begins to rise) and sharp, structured tailoring to contrast the curves of your body type. Sharp shoulders and pointy lapels can surprisingly do wonders to a larger gentleman, but sharp doesn’t mean you have to go smart; make the outfit casual with a lightweight tee, bearing in mind that darker tones show less shadows under unwanted wobbly bits. Alternatively, a shirt with subtle vertical stripes can take the look into the evening, but avoid doing up the top button if you have a bit of a turkey neck!
Top Tip for Body-Type:
Pair with dark, straight, well-fitting jeans that fit your bum and ankles well – skinny jeans will ironically heighten your top-heavy proportions!
Helpful Articles:
The (Slightly) Older Gentleman
At the risk of sending anyone into a mid-life crisis, I do believe that the middle-aged gents amongst us should dress dress differently. Now, by no means am I saying that a middle-aged man can not be stylish, but what I am saying is that they are unfortunately less likely to get away with being as experimental with their outfits as their younger competition. Put it this way: if Lady GaGa was a middle aged woman sporting her meat dresses and telephone hats down the local high-street, she would be written off as either insane… or Madonna. However, as I say, the middle-aged gent can still be stylish, and only a few subtle changes need to be made to add a sense of maturity to an outfit.
The Trench
The trench coat is a timeless classic and a spring favourite for all ages (although better suited to the slightly taller category). Its sharp structuring will give your look a smart appeal, whilst maintaining a stylish flair. Opt for a monotonous palette and favour the darker shades, whilst paying much attention to detail – I find that the buttons of a trench are essential to the overall quality of the coat. With your student days long behind you – unlike me – you may be able to afford a slightly better quality trench, but there is always the option of buying your own buttons separately and sewing them on yourself (great tip by Ashley Cover in his trench article below).
A waterproof, lightweight fabric is perfect for spring, but a softer material may work well over your suit on your way to work (yes my stereotype of the middle-aged man is based on the 1950s). Pair with brogues, boots, or even boat shoes, but please avoid the hi-tops! If you want a slightly more casual look, or the trench doesn’t fit your figure right, a parka is a great alternative and another spring favourite.
Top Tip for Body-Type:
Just because you are getting older doesn’t mean you have to lose your style – maintain what makes you, you, but just add a few tweaks here and there where needed.
Helpful Articles:
If you’re body type doesn’t fit into any of the above then don’t panic – part two will be bringing you the best spring items for the shorter, muscular and broad-shouldered gentlemen. I know these ‘types’ may be a little stereotypical, but unless I list every single possible combination of body type on the planet, it would be pretty much impossible to cover your exact body shape without knowing you! However, as with any stereotype, by picking tips from each category you may fall into (or perhaps just edge towards the boundary of), then you will have a starting point to go out and experiment for yourself.
If you have any specific questions about your own body types and issues you come across with your daily wardrobe, then I’ll be happy to try and help in the comments below!
As always, you can follow me on twitter for further ramblings, thoughts and comments on the fashion world and beyond: www.twitter.com/TomBloomfield
Tom
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Nice one :) Anyone knows what’s the name of the color of the top right chinos-some kind of pale beige or sand?
Good article, maybe a look for smaller men though would of been useful for alot of readers?
It’s just a shout but I feel drop crotch/ carrots need avoiding for people with smaller legs as they give off a “stumpy” look lol. Therefore you’d think the opposite (skinny) would be a good alternative?
I myself am 5’10 and go for a skinny chino, however sometimes a baggy drop crotch gives off the illusion of being short and out of proportion!
Perhaps drop crotch/carrot fit should be avoided by everyone? :D
I have drop crotch chinos on today, and one girl said to me “only you could get away with wearing what you’ve got on today”. I’m hoping it was a compliment, I think she was refering to the fact I’m 6’2!
Definitely avoid drop crotch if you are short!
George Lamp is a perfect example of skinny chinos rolled up for the taller man. I tend to copy his style, because being a similar height and build, I know what he wears, I can. (Doesn’t mean I look as good as the handsome beeeep though!)
@Haydon Shorter figures will be in part two! But yes definitely avoud drop crotch if you are shorter. Skinny jeans do elongate the legs for someone shorter, but the most important thing is to wear similar colour shoes to your jeans, to create one long flow and not break it up.
I wear drop crotch and I am 6’1, I have huge legs and a short torso so they help to put me in proportion, but as you will see in part two they are also great for putting muscly guys into proportion :)
Tom
Good as advice as always, although I sometimes think I look like a “flasher” in my trenchcoat. I see you still champion Desert Boots in some of the above pics, but I scoured the many high street shops in Southampton at the weekend and can’t find a decent pair for love or money! Any advice as to where I can buy a decent pair online?
rolled up chinos on a really tall guy…personally i think they can give the impression that they are simply too short for the wearer’s gangly legs rather than it being a conscious decision!
Hey Mark,
I got my desert boots from ASOS and they are really good quality, I’ve never worn them because they are round toe and give me massive clown feet (yet I never took them back in hope that my feet would shrink one day), so if you are going to opt for desert boots make sure you don’t have huge feet!
A square-ended shoe is best for larger feet.
Tom
As a 55 year old, I love this site and comments. I do get a little cross with being told to ‘dress my age’ ! It’s all a little stereotypical. And what ‘type’ am I? 36 w, 42 chest, 6 ft tall. I just want to have some stylish FUN with clothes!
Hey James,
The tips myself, and anyone else I’m sure, give on this site are not aimed to be restricting or confining but merely to help you. Like I say, you won’t fit into a perfect stereotypical “type” so it is all about finding what works best for you. If you are happy with your style then who cares eh? I just think that the older gent can still be stylish without dressing like a teenager, which I see a lot of older guys doing!
Tom
Here’s an idea then! What about articles (with pics but no faces!) showing what you think doesn’t work ?
Surely that defeats the whole point of what I’m saying? These articles are supposed to be positive guidelines for you to adapt to your own wardrobe and feel happy about yourself, not for you to take negatively and think you should be restricted to these rules. But if you are referring to the part of older gentleman, then what I mean is that whereas the younger generation can get away with experimenting more with their looks, such as the guys on LookBook, perhaps elder gentlemen can’t – and it is looks such as the ‘Topman’ look that should perhaps be avoided (such as skinny jeans, hoodies etc.)
Tom
Thanks for the ideas. Although at 6’ I’m not very tall, but I am slim and my 34” legs are disproportionally long compared to my upper body so I rushed out to All Saints to get some chinos. However, I ended up with a pair of low rise (not too low) slim fit (not skinny) jeans and I’m very happy with the fit/look. I also ended up with a pair of their military boots which the very nice girl serving me suggested I try with the jeans tucked in to make my legs look not so long. I’m 38 so I was a bit reluctant, but the girl flattered me by complementing my youthful build and looks (I’m sure she had just completed a sales course!) and I must say they worked well with the jeans in or out. I’m happy wearing my new boots and jeans the traditional way, but I do like the tucked in look so I would appreciate your thoughts on this look for the older gent???
Im a 6ft 1 guy with 34 and half inche legs but i cant find any chinos that fit me…Iv tried the whole range at Topman but they go beyond being too skinny fit..carrot fit is good for my bigger thighs but then the the hem is way to skinny and tight so im basically in a losing situation. If a buy a size bigger then they tend to be a bad fit….I like the miltary boots look with chinos but dont know where to start my search for a pair of chinos that fit …any ideas would be grateful????
hey! can u recommend or give me advice on what kind of pants should i wear as my hips part are quite big. i tried skiiny jeans,but sometimes it doesnt suits me that well.