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Introduction
As a vegetarian, wearing animal skins is cardinal sin No.1 for me. However, when it comes to such cultural icons as leather jackets, these morals seem to dwindle.
I think at this early stage we can assume Matthew’s veto from vegetarian Catholicism – at least as far as his wardrobe is concerned.
I see no wardrobe as complete without a leather sort to don at the drop of a cow. No matter who you are, your age, gender, size – irrelevant! There is a style to suit everyone. Yet I find myself asked the same question almost with an air of paranoia: “Will they go out of fashion?”
Designers send drones of models down the catwalks every year sporting leather jackets in all manner of styles, each one varying the cut to the colour; no one ever seems to tire of seeing them!
In this definitive guide to all things leather, jackety and leather jackety – I am going to instil principles, teach a trend or two and show you how to become the icon of an undying style.
The Guide
The leather jacket claimed its place on the fashion wall of fame in the 1950s. It became a piece of Hollywood iconography that soon crossed the pond in all directions. The style icons that dared to don it only heightened the staple of all things cool.
As is biblical with the suit, the leather jacket fails to age; it merely progresses. Sadly you do not offer the same timeless etiquette. This brings to front the question: Which style best suits you, and what should it be worn with?
The Styles
Cut: The Aviator
Made Popular By: Tom Cruise ‘Top Gun’
Who should wear: This jacket is a huge part of the current military trend; however it is made for the more ‘slight of frame’ shall we say. The extra padding inside is practical for keeping warm, but it also pads out the body, so for all those of us who are still a little festively plump, I’m afraid this one is a no no.
Guide: Created to be a practical piece of clothing in WWII, but is now hanging in just about every celebrities and fashion follower’s wardrobe. Aviators are really big this season and are great to wear as part of a vintage look. They have the nostalgic background extending from World War II, again sliding nicely in to the oh-so popular military apparel.
Pair with:
- Military boots
- Chunky knit jumpers
- Acid wash jeans
Cut: The Bomber
Made Popular By: James Dean
Who should wear: The bomber is quite diverse, in that it can look good on men of all ages and shapes. However, how you match it to your particular body is the tricky part.
For guys who are not very well built on top, finding one with an elastic waist jacket cinches you in, leaving your shoulders looking a lot broader. For guys who are of a stockier frame, I would avoid such a jacket like the plague, as the elastic waist will only highlight how big you really are; look for a standard falling design.
Guide: The bomber jacket is a stylish extension to the aviator, perhaps even more like the original aviator than what is currently on offer. As I mentioned earlier, stocky guys should avoid the elastic waist bomber, but going for a loose- fit and zipping it to about 6″ south of the neck, will help to reduce the appearance of any extra chins, as it creates a deep V shape, which elongates the neck.
Pair with:
- Brogue Boots
- Denim Shirt
- Skinny Jeans
Cut: The Biker Jacket
Made Popular By: Marlon Brando – ‘The Wild One’
Who should wear: Again, another diverse option. The biker jacket is a statement piece on its own, so it works well for most men. Often seen as the ‘if all else fails’ piece, but don’t attempt carry it off with that attitude!
Guide: This jacket is all about the versatility of men. If you were going for a glam rock look, this would be perfect. Think Russell Brand/ Noel Fielding. Younger, slim guys can wear this with something as simple as some black skinny jeans and a plain grey/white tee.
Guys who are perhaps getting older, or if your body ‘isn’t what it used to be’, then breaking up the silhouette is a great option. Pairing some dark blue jeans with a black biker jacket is still a cool look, but your body is not just one mass of colour in this case, which will again make you appear slimmer.
Pair with:
- Monotone print tees
- Ankle boots
- Slim fit black jeans
Cut: The Hooded
Made Popular By: David Beckham
Who should wear: Goldenballs himself was working this look for the best part of the last decade, however to wear this now, would definitely get a red card in my books. The hooded leather jacket does not have to be specific to a certain cut or colour to work. However, as it does fit into the “hoodie” category, I would suggest avoiding this if you are aged 25+.
Guide: As mentioned in my ‘who should wear’ section, the additional hood to the jacket has a more youthful appeal, however older gentlemen should not use this a sign to reclaim their ‘golden years’, as it will make you look more fool than cool. Having a hooded Jacket means you can wear more material on your bottom half, for example worker (baggy) jeans. This is because the hood adds weight to your shoulders, which overall balances out the figure.
Pair with:
- Earth coloured chinos
- Scoop neck t-shirt
- Plimsolls
Cut: Tan & Coloured Leather
Made Popular By: John Wayne (Albeit a gilet)
Who should wear: Wearing a bold colour on a certain part of you body, is of course going to attract people’s eyes to you. If you have moobs (man- boobs) and a pot- belly peaking out the front of your jacket, this is most going to attract unwanted attention to what should be an understated area.
Guide: Much like all of the other leather jackets, coloured leathers were never intended to be viewed as a ‘new trend’ in fashion. When most people think of leather jackets, they automatically think black or brown, which can be a little plain and repetitive sometimes. Coloured leather jackets work great either opposite contrasting colours, or a block coloured outfit, for example all black wrapped up nicely with a blue leather jacket.
Pair with:
- Block coloured top, trousers and shoes.
- Other bright colours, for example some plum coloured skinnies with a blue jacket.
- Accessories matching the colour of your jacket.
The Icons
Icon status should be an aspiration. Not an admiration. A life reserved to sit back and watch the icons a’ few shine is a life that fails to leave any mark on the world.
To showcase the popularity in the subject of today’s guide, I have created a gallery to depict how even some of the most famous people to have ever lived turned a jacket – into a piece of style history.
1950s – Elvis ‘The King’ Presley
1960s – The Beatles
1970s – Classic Ramones look
1980s – Duran Duran
1990s – Oasis ‘The Golden Years’
Now – The Cribs
While some may consider any part of this to be a terrible taste in music, these famous bands have always been the style of their generation. From Elvis’s up-turned collar of the 50s, to the Cribs unwashed, rock-chic look of present, the leather jacket has always been a must.
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Every gentleman should have one in his wardrobe. I have 2, both in tan that make me look like MacGuyver and Indiana Jones.
hooded leather jackets should be BANNED
Haha Great write up!! I’m a big fan of leather jackets and currently own 3. My newest and current favourite is my Biker jacket. I got the idea mainly from Maroon 5′s Misery Video and the greaser type look. Nothing can better than a plane white T and some slim fit jeans with it.
The main problem I have with my leather jackets is getting it Worn in for a rough and ready look. Not a real problem with the biker jacket, even when fresh It looks good.
Iam really behind, I don’t own any leather jackets.
Any recommendation on which store to buy them from?
Igor, i am somewhat inclined to agree with you – a hooded leather jacket just seems a bit strange to me. I currently have a dark brown leather jacket that, i guess, would come under the bomber category. I find this one a lot more versatile than the biker jacket I used to have.
How much is your budget? The greater your budget = different stores. Topman usually have good bomber leather jackets on a budget. I’d avoid buying Leather jackets online, you want to give a leather jacket a good try on before you buy it, making sure it fits as perfect as it can be.
what about leather WAISTCOATS ?? like this one:
http://www.zara.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product/11708/en/zara-sales/15004/196073/LEATHER%2BWAISTCOAT
I used to dislike the elastic cuffing, thinking it spoilt the coolness of a leather jacket. Then I ended up with one, and what can I say; as you mentioned in the bomber section, the elasticised waist helps make my top half look broader. I still avoid the elastic cuff on the sleeves though, especially as it can limit what kind of gloves you wear.
@Dajaun. S – Depends what type you’re looking for and for what price. I can be very particular with my leather / leather-look jackets, so I tend to browse any online stores that come to mind. As such I can’t really recommend a store in particular.
@jho – Assuming you mean making them look old and heavily worn, I’ve seen a few tips online before for distressing leather jackets, but I didn’t really note them down (it’s not something I’ve done personally). However, a quick Google search for “creating a worn look leather jacket” brings up a few DIY suggestions.
Otherwise, some stores offer them worn to start with. The grey jacket in the middle of the three pictures just above “the icons” section is actually from River Island, and they tend to do worn-in looks for several of their leather / leather-look jackets. They don’t have a lot online right now as (with many stores) they’re selling off last season’s stuff ready for S/S, but keep your eye out there.
All Saints also do a lot of worn leathers, and I’m sure there are some other stores that do them too.
Leathers (EXCEPT for the amazing Burberry Aviators, only Burb though) should be banned. They’re just not good really.
YES! featured on fashionbeans! I knew my shit haircut would pay off one day.
I’ve got an All Saints leather jacket with a hood. I didn’t think it could be fail. Still, I paid for it and can’t let a blog tell me not to eh.
I have a Hooded leather jacket from Topman, fits really well. I see the point about hood’s possibly looking young but I guess it depends overall in your style and how you wear the jacket. I’m pleased with my purchase.
At least if I’m out and about and it rains………
IMO hooded leather jackets work better when the rest of the jacket is appropriately styled. A hood on a plain biker jacket may clash with the clean styling. On the other hand, it would add to the charm of a wild All Saints jacket with zips all over the front.
Not a fan of elasticated waists on any jacket. To me, they tend to encourage a muffin top shape that doesn’t look very flattering.
You’ve covered the main styles that are around nowadays. What about leather shirts, sleeveless vests and other sorts that you don’t see around that often? The shirts in particular may be of interest since you can try layering them under outerwear.
Is it at all possible to get leather jackets altered by a tailor? i have one that could so with some work to make it a lot better fitting but due to the heavy duty nature of leather, I’m unsure.
@ADA OKPE I’m sure they can. I would definitely ask your tailor. I thought the same about thick wool but it’s amazing what they can do with all kinds of things you wouldn’t think possible.
@RYAN JARMAN ?? Are you one of the pics from lookbook.nu?
@Dajaun.S
I am not exactly wealthy (not all all actually) yet when it comes to a leather jacket I think it is well worth investing a few bob. You just have to compare the quality of the leather and the cuts to see what I mean, I wouldn’t buy say a Topman in a million years (sorry sponsor! :) ). Now there is a brand I absolutely would recommend (and not only for leather btw) is Full Circle, have alook at their website. The leather and cuts are top notch and the looks as well. They’re around £300 a piece BUT wait for the sales (now!) and they go down half price or even better down to £100 as I did once ( though you need luck too to get your size), also TK Maxx has its share of good leather jackets every year at about the same price (£100) for jackets worth 300. (inc Belstaff)
I love my black biker jacket but also enjoy a brown vintage I bought years ago, I based that particular look on Stereophonics’ Kelly Jones, that with a pair of Ray Bans you just can’t go wrong!
(Regular visitor but 1st post, love your site)
Here’s an example of what I wrote about investing a slight more:
http://www.topman.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?beginIndex=0&viewAllFlag=&catalogId=33056&storeId=12555&productId=2106171&langId=-1&sort_field=Relevance&categoryId=207200&parent_categoryId=207169&sort_field=Relevance&pageSize=200&cmpid=aw_default&_$ja=tsid:19899
It’s lovely but then would I pay 70 more quid for a much better and better looking one? You bet! Check that one out, and almost all sizes are still available:
http://www.fullcircleuk.com/Roder-HOODED-LEATHER-BIKER-STYLE-JACKET-PRODJCDU30/
(PS: I don’t want to be seen as pushy and I don’t own shares or work for FC, I’m just chuffed with their products, that’s why we’re here for, right? :D )
I LOVE YOUR WRITING STYLE, these leather jackets are awesome!
Banned this week praised next season. UGH!
I have maybe 4 leather jackets different types.
> Blk Peacoat CK
> Traditional Blk Biker
> Distressed Brn Trucker jacket
> Blk/Slvr Cafe racer jacket (newest)
I think leather jackets will never go out of style. They can flow in any direction…. Remember the leather Suits and pullovers?
i know you’ve outlined the various styles above but i’m kinda after some views on the way you’d wear/fasten leather jackets as there seems to be quite a variation that alters the look….
Now many leather jackets come with a double 2 way zip. So does anyone wear the jacket with both zips meeting halfway which leaves the top and bottom unzipped? i find it looks more edgy and shows off what you’re wearing underneath while maintaining your silhouette (rather than leaving the jacket completely opened/unzipped)…. but i rarely see anyone else doing it! so how do you wear yours guys?
@Robby: For me it really depends on the jacket. My waist cuffed jacket with its single middle zip is best done a fairly short way up, keeping the jacket around my waist but still displaying what I’m wearing underneath.
With a biker or asymmetric jacket I’d tend to leave it zipped up to the folds to show that design off, whereas with a more basic jacket that has little detail, I’d usually leave it completely unzipped to show the detail of what’s being worn underneath.
Hi, I need your help PLEASE!!! I´m looking for the jacket the guy in the middle on the picture above is wearing. It´s the “Biker Jacket” picture. That guy white the blue -red shirt. Does anyone know where I can get it? Thanks
For absolute frigidity there is only one leather jacket – the Schott Perfecto biker one. Why? Well is started in the late ’50s as a mean looking biker leather jacket (Marlon Brando – The Wild One). In the late ’70s the punks latched on to it followed by the heavy metallurgists before it became virtually mainstream fashion. Now after a quiet period it is resurging. This means it has been around for three generations – so there must be something special about it . Currently wear as short as possible even use a ladies style (a somewhat cropped version) with a prominent belt (studded) + buckle , skin tight jeans and pointy cuban heel chelseas of a colour different to the jeans. Make sure the collar is up for more ultimate meanness. Make sure you pull the sleeves up. If you cannot rock a DA haircut, then wear a fedora hat. Loose hanging skinny tie to complete. For coolness read Gene Scarlatti’s book ‘Cool – a Hipster’s Directory’ – Hutchinsons. Written in 1982 it is as applicable now as then. For more detailed stuff on leather jackets read ‘The Leather Book’ by Anne-Laure Quilleriet published by Assouline – but the best is Mick Farren’s ‘The Black Leather Jacket’ Plexus.
Henry you MUST work for Schott, right? C’mon – skinny tie?? pointy cuban heels??? FEDORA HAT??? err yeah if you want to look like a refugee from some 80s American one-hit wonder ‘new wave’ group!!! – and turn the collar up for ‘utlimate meannes’?? Oh Brother. my grandma rocks a meaner look in her sheepskin slippers and support tights.