Despite the tragic passing of the label’s founder in February of last year, the new Alexander McQueen collection was certainly turning heads in their spring/summer 2013 show in Milan this week.
Long-time fans of the McQueen label may find themselves a little disappointed. Gone are the wildly over-the-top stylings of yesteryear, in favour of a more mature, refined look. Others may rejoice at the label’s decision to open up their niche appeal to a wider audience.
Inspiration for the collection goes back to the late McQueen’s early training on Savile Row, with highly stylised suits being the main order of the day. These are inter-spaced with the detailed printings so typical of the McQueen brand. Although subtlety has replaced extravagance, interesting clashes of style are certainly present; a personal favourite being the black suit jacket covered in golden dragonflies. The collection also moves from bright all-white summer suits through to sombre black leather trenches.
Sarah Burton was the guiding creative hand behind the McQueen men’s and women’s collections this year, which used the same fabrications for both sets of clothing; something often tried in fashion but which rarely succeeds. Burton does a truly excellent job of updating and refining the McQueen look, while still staying true to the creativity and humour of the original designer.
Whatever else next summer holds, it certainly looks as though the sun will be shining down on McQueen.