Given a fresh lease of life by creative director Jason Basmajian, polished retro-era Italian label, Brioni continues to perfect its technical design excellence and flair with its up-coming SS13 collection.
Founded on the via Barberini in Rome in 1945 by Abbruzian tailor Gaetano Savini, this refined menswear label became synonymous with the jet-set sartorial aficionados of the 60s and 70s. After experiencing a decline and identity crisis in recent decades, the brand was acquired by luxury conglomerate PPR and has metamorphosed into a bold and luxurious label that has regained its vivacity and status as a premier Italian tailoring label.
With its youthful new identity, the SS13 collection sees the label embracing colour with a passion; bold and bright hues were the order of the day, with tailored separates show in shades of red, dusky pinks and turquoise. Inspired by society photographer Slim Aarons, the collection recalls the heyday of the international jet-set and erudite socialites of eras past.
The SS13 line is a coherent assemblage of beautifully-cut tailored separates in fine cotton, linen and wool blends that mix and match to perfection; the formalities of traditional tailored styling have been disregarded in favour of a more relaxed approach and wearability, with much of what is offered the ideal capsule-closet investment.
As well as traditional tailoring, a selection of lightweight outerwear was shown, including an ultra-covetable tan suede bomber, a quilted rain jacket and a mac-style coverall. The brand has also made is first foray into eyewear, which will be sold for the first time as part of the SS13 collection.
With the expanding array of garments on offer, this esteemed heritage label is looking to raise its sartorial profile and take its rightly deserved lion’s share of the luxury market – it seems PPR and Basmajian have great designs on making Brioni the next great all-Italian lifestyle brand.