Dior has done it again.
Few fashion lines, especially in menswear, get it right every time. It’s hard to remember a collection by Dior Homme that hasn’t been fantastic. Setting the benchmark in high end designer fashion is done by very few houses, and if Dior wasn’t one of them before, then this collection has earned them a seat at the table.
The collection is almost all dark blue, an unusual choice for a collection entitled ‘Light,’ but a fantastic shade for one of the most effortlessly masculine collections of the season. With classic tailoring and shapes, each trouser leg is a little wider than before, each jacket somewhat offset from the shoulder and every model wearing boots (not exactly made for a summer in the south of France), the collection feels ever so slightly aggressive.
Gone is the androgynous tapering of past years, here there is an ‘everyday man’ feel that is so very often missing on the runway, and pretty much everywhere you look in fashion. Skinny is replaced with slim, silhouetting a somewhat larger frame, and the trousers are higher and wider (don’t worry, I’m not talking Bay City Rollers) than we’ve seen before.
The collection is brimming with a 1970s influence, all very practical and back to business after the 60s free thinking ethos, but still with a slight edge and almost sports like vibe in places with zip up leather jackets and smart windbreakers (think Tom Hardy in ‘Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy’). In addition, the collection has an abundance of double breasted tailoring, another nod to 70s style.
It would be rude, whilst talking about this collection, not to mention the show. Set under blinding white light in what appears to be an industrial hanger, the models walked around the white cube created in a very conformist manner. With florescent bulbs above, oversized jackets and hard wearing boots, there’s a harsh feel, almost reminiscent of a hospital or even asylum. The collection and the show are married in some kind of clinical and deliberate matrimony.
It’s easy to see why Dior Homme is so successful. It hits every note; stylish without being overpowering, partly flamboyant without being tacky, and direct without being boring. Simply, it’s menswear at its best.