Ultra-discreet Belgian fashion designer, Martin Margiela, would be delighted with the new menswear collection released by his namesake label for the spring/summer 2012 season. Today I pick out the key items from the range.
We start with the Virgin Wool Evening Suit, which is constructed from a beautifully textured shade of black satin. Sleek shawl lapels lead into a buttoned down front of two reflective pespex mirror buttons – with the option of changing to normal buttons. Other detailing includes two front flap pockets, front darts and a single vent. The lineage, particularly with the one interior pocket, is unmistakably, Italian. The classic and instantly recognisable 0-23 badge is finely attached to the inside of the jacket.
The partially lined trousers accompanying the suit contain satin stripes on the outer legs, a concealed button down fly as well as two hip and rear pockets. Please, please, please, don’t make that terrifying mistake when it comes to washing this number – it is specialist dry clean only.
Another new piece, both outstanding and edgy, is the Cotton-Blend Shirt. The shirt’s wing tip collar is eccentric and ground-breaking; showing that the new, young designers at MMM take a hands-on approach (quite literally), of deconstructing items and breaching the gatekeepers of design – just as Martin himself opted. The increasingly popular design of the pearlescent button down front – similar to the Burberry Prorsum Shirts previously covered here at FashionBeans – are another cutting edge in this shirt’s diverse design. The short sleeve shirt also contains turn-up cuffs and a curved hemline.
The ongoing craze of the pocket t-shirt takes another twist in this collection with the Marled Cotton T-Shirt. Seen below in a neutral, dove grey colour, the garment includes a partial button down front and a tan coloured calf suede chest pocket. You get the feeling this particular piece might just establish itself over the other mass produced pocket-style t-shirts seen so far this season.
I’ve chosen my favourite three items from the new collection, so now it’s your turn. Head over to Browns for the full range.