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Introduction
We talk an awful lot about fashion essentials here at FashionBeans – from the basics that no wardrobe should be without, to the individual items that will really take your style up a sartorial notch. The blazer falls squarely into both of those categories, a basic that you REALLY can’t do without as well as a singular item to make your wardrobe effortlessly more elegant and sophisticated.
They are hugely versatile, great for layering, brilliant for adding some easy individuality and perfect for both current and upcoming trends. They transcend the seasons and as such represent a perfect investment – one that should last you for years to come. Many of you I’m sure will already have a very clear idea in your head of what a blazer should or might look like and the chances are it won’t be the same as the subject this article; the unstructured blazer.
We seem programmed to go for the smartest, most refined looks we can achieve at the moment but wouldn’t it be nice to just let our hair down once in a while? The unstructured blazer could help us do just that.
So What’s The Difference?
As is so often the case in the fashion community, terms are passed around on a regular basis that we might not always completely understand; the phrases structured and unstructured are no different. This is particularly the case for those newer to the community, taking the first steps in developing a wardrobe. The forums are full of suggestions for blazers but not all blazers are the same. So to help those who don’t know and for those who have an idea but just want confirmation, here is a quick explanation of the key differences.
Structured
The style you would most commonly associate with a suit, a structured blazer has a more defined and (unsurprisingly) constructed nature. They have padded shoulders and additional material within the linings to help hold the shape and cut. Most structured blazers will have a tapered waist regardless of whether it is slim fit or not as this also creates the shape of the original cut.
The pockets are generally flap covered and incorporated into the jacket itself but this is not exclusive; patch pockets are common on sports/shooting jackets and other heritage inspired styles. With pressed seams, strengthened collars and cuffs the structured jacket looks to maintain clean lines and a more formal aesthetic.
Unstructured
Generally made from lighter materials (cotton, wool mixes or linen) unstructured jackets are more associated with the lofty temperatures of summer than depths of winter (albeit our rather mild winter.)
Overall they are a more casual style as they aren’t required to hold as much shape; the shoulder padding and inner structure of the jackets more rigid sibling is removed, making it softer and creating a more relaxed line. Rather than frame the shoulders it will follow the line and naturally drape closer to the body.
However, the unsupported nature of the fabric and the way it doesn’t taper in can lead to it looking boxy. With unstructured blazers often including patched pockets and featuring exposed seams, it means they suit more casual looks.
These features are not restricted to one or the other however, many are interchangeable such as the nature of the seams, the amount of padding, the material or ultimately, the cut. They are however, identifiable norms from which you can gauge the difference.
Take note of Alex Woodhall’s article on New Year Style Resolutions as well; particularly the section on getting to know your tailor. Unless you are very lucky, or have a bespoke jacket made for you (in which case you are still very lucky) there will always be something that can be done to a jacket to make it fit even better.
How To Wear: The Unstructured Blazer
Unstructured Blazer Lookbook
Outfit 1
Although the unstructured jacket is in a grand sense casual, it does not mean that they do not work in a more structured outfit. As we can see from the looks above, smarter looks are achievable and the blazer simply adds a quirky edge to it.
In fact, the unstructured jacket is the perfect item to mix with your heritage fabrics and interesting accessories; a chambray shirt, a bow tie and some cords or wool trousers would create a very intriguing preppy/heritage hybrid. Team with a pair of boots for a season appropriate footwear surprise and a simple canvas satchel for a look that will scream individuality.
- Polo Ralph Lauren Washed Navy Herringbone Twill Blazer
- Universal Works Faded Chambray Classic Work Shirt
- Topman Chianti Cord Bow Tie
- Topman Stone Cotton Slim Chino
- Topman Brown Deconstructed Satchel
- Asos Lace Up Desert Boots
Outfit 2
For the current colder season, the unstructured blazer is perfect. The softer lines and more flexible construction mean that it is superb for layering – not only does it work well with items associated with our current trends, its shape means you have more room, allowing you more space for experimentation.
For those of you with a hankering for double breasted, you might also find the unstructured root more forgiving. The inherent softness of such a blazer helps to avoid the square shape they usually create and makes a formal style more suitable for casual looks. Bearing in mind the upcoming spring/summer season, try replicating some Riviera chic with a Breton stripe tee, white trousers and a pair of loafers.
- Lanvin Double-breasted Taffeta Jacket
- Topman Navy Marl And White Stripe T-shirt
- Lanvin Rolled-seam Silk Pocket Square
- Incotex Slim-fit Washed-cotton Trousers
- Gucci Aviator Acetate Sunglasses
- Hudson Chocolate Tassel Tyska Loafers
Unstructured Blazer Picks
- Allsaints Foreman Jacket
- Allsaints Hudson Blazer
- Selected Knit Blazer
- Marshall Artist Double Breasted Blazer
- Grey Cotton Unstructured Blazer
- Allsaints Ballast Jacket
- Folk Cotton Taped Midnight Jacket
- Hartford Camel Washed Cord Patch Pocket Blazer
- Ted Baker Unstructured Cotton Blazer
- Universal Works Hyde Twill Blazer Jacket
- Universal Works Grey Cannock Suit Jacket
- Rag & Bone Men’s Pathfinder Blazer
- Richard James Unstructured Gingham Blazer
- Burberry Brit Wickham Unstructured Cotton Blazer
- Polo Ralph Lauren Chocolate Washed Corduroy Patch Pocket Blazer
Conclusion
The unstructured blazer is certainly an item that deserves consideration. Our pervading desire for clean cut shapes and sharp lines make it a bold choice, but it could well be a choice worth making. So, will one be making its way into your wardrobe?
Let me know your thoughts and experiences in the comments below.
Will
The Non-Essential Menswear List
Style Inspiration: Berlin Grunge
Spring/Summer Essential Fabrics – Part 3: Madras & Tropical Wools
Spring/Summer Essential Fabrics – Part 2: Seersucker
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Good article. However, my current emotion is one of massive disappointment – the moment I laid my eyes on that Hartford camel cord blazer right at the centre of your picks, I knew I had experienced true love (ok, maybe a bit of an exaggeration), so I clicked on the link to mywardrobe.com to see the price and thought “Great; easily affordable”. Alas, upon attempting to purchase, that classic feeling of despair rose inside me as I saw that none were left in my size (medium). An onslaught of tourettes-esque cursing ensued.
Its always the way; I usually try to avoid adding sale product picks but sometimes it isn’t always workable. Look at it this way; it you were meant to have it then it would have been available. Sad, but its a way of getting over things.
Personally i don’t like the unstructured blazer, they look like a cheap version of a blazer. What would an unstructured suit look like on someone?
The idea behind a blazer, structured or unstructured, is that it goes on its own, rather than as part of a suit. Hence the term ‘odd jacket’ used sometimes to describe such a garment. A full unstructured suit would probably have the same effect as a double denim disaster or leather jacket/leather pants.
I’ve got a love/hate relationship with casual blazers. It’s the ultimate challenge to find one that is the ideal mix of fit and look. Out of all the garments out there I think this is the one that must be seen on someone in order get an accurate idea of how it actually fits.
Casual blazers always seem like the product of contradictory purposes and the result of cutting the garment to hold a shape and then withholding any form of support is that it either fits magnificently or disastrously.
Anyway, from my experiences I’d say be prepared for the unstructured blazer of your dreams to not fit properly, and don’t be afraid to let it go and move on. I’ve gone through about three so far before finally settling on one that fit the best. You’ll encounter problems from loose sides to lapels that bend at weird angles when buttoned, and its up to you whether to tailor the hell out of the blazer or keep searching.
I would avoid dark, stiff materials as these almost always crumple up, a bad match for the dark tones. Stick to lighter tones and linen for the crumply casual goodness.
Since there’s no structure, you’ll have to rely on drape instead, so no stiff stuff once again. Wool mixes are ideal IMO, as jersey looks cheap most of the time and has the same texture as sweatpants. If you must have jersey, get a thick one with lining.
That said, casual blazers present a wealth of options that few other garments can do. They probably rival leather jackets for versatility and can go with anything from shorts to boots to kilts. I have a soft spot for 4/5 buttons and tiny collars, and wouldn’t shy from getting one for ‘maximum look’ that will always be worn open. Great article altogether, I’ve been waiting a long time for something like this to pop up and examine the casual blazer in such detail!
I’ve been thinking about adding an unstructed blazer to my wardrobe. It seems to me that it would be a fairly versatile item (as your selection of photos verifies). I wouldn’t have thought of pairing it with a waistcoat, but that guy top middle is rocking it.