Central Saint Martins graduates and MA collaborators Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding have recently joined forces to form the menswear/womenswear label; Palmer//Harding. Rather than spreading their collective creativity too thinly over an all-encompassing collection, the pair has instead decided to focus on one garment: the shirt. This approach seems to allow for a more studied and progressive evolution in design, something best explained by the duo themselves: “By focusing on shirts alone, the designs are able to be seen in a pure form without distraction, highlighting the beauty and craft of the garments”.
For spring/summer 2013, the label offers a total of ten shirts for men. With a limited palette, the collection relies on its precise cuts and almost sculptural silhouettes, constructed with an attention to detail that verges on obsession. It is details such as the spiral pleats and gauze double cuffs that add unexpected twists to the collection’s otherwise cohesive narrative. The pattern-cutting, (something Palmer studied for three years in Dallas before attending CSM), of each shirt is of particular note and this, along with the collection’s romantic yet bold aesthetic, appears to be the label’s signature style.
The campaign’s most eye-catching pieces include the bib front popover shirt with collar detail and the elegant dress shirt featuring linear pleated sleeves. These items in particular embody the contrasting skills of Palmer and Harding, balancing fluidity with structure and freedom with control.
The collection is a complete success and demonstrates that the subtle nuances of delicate brush strokes on a blank canvas can be as appealing as the most colourful and exuberant works of art.
To see the full collection head over to the Palmer//Harding website.