Introduction
At the turn of the year, I put forward three new year’s style resolutions that would immediately give your sartorial skills a boost. Embedded into this article was a small section on learning the simple style rules in an effort to prep up your image with no cost necessary. It is these rules – and the subsequent mistakes which occur when they are relaxed – that I’m going to focus on today.
I’ve left out the incredibly obvious – poorly fitted, stained, un-ironed clothing – as hopefully we’re all aware of these major style sins.
So without further ado, let’s kick start proceedings with number one in our wardrobe refresh…
The Mistake: Misbuttoning
The law of logic suggests that buttons exist for a reason, and that the number of buttons a piece has should be a fair indicator as to how many should be done up. Logic is, however, misleading more men than I care to count. With the exception of shirts, the occasional polo and of course trousers, at least one button should be left undone at all times.
The chief offender in all of this is the blazer or suit jacket. Although cardigans, waistcoats and a select few jackets are also notable causalities.
The misbuttoning mistake is, sadly, all too common in menswear and everyday evidence suggests that the population could do with a little educating on the matter.
The Analysis
There is no particular reason for the button rule; except for that it is just the accepted manner of how to wear the garments in question. We all understand that to be seated, a jacket must be first undone to avoid unsightly bunch.
The rule is said to have originated from King Edward VII, who was rumoured to be so heavy that he simply couldn’t get the bottom button of his waistcoat done up. His subjects took this as a fashion statement and, as somewhat of a style icon, followed his lead.
The buttoning rule is not the only thing we have to thank HRH for, as he also popularised a FashionBeans’ favourite – the tweed jacket – alongside black ties and the traditional Sunday roast.
The Solution
In a nutshell, the solution is to leave the bottom button of the article of clothing you are wearing undone. This means for a two-button jacket, you fasten only the top button. A three button should be limited to either the middle or top two buttons, unless the lapels have been designed to roll to the middle fastening. In which case, to avoid the garment looking stretched, only button the middle.
If you’re venturing into fabled four-button territory, then leave only the bottom button undone. If you’re hitting for five or six then I’m afraid the games up and neither this nor any other style advice could help you pull it off.
For waistcoats, cardigans and the like, follow the basic rule of solely leaving the bottom button undone. Complications arise when you start bringing double-breasted attire into the mix. In this case, it is both acceptable to leave or do up the bottom fastening.
Last but not least, it is crucial that you remember: when wearing a blazer, unfasten before you sit and button once you’re standing. This makes the jacket much more flattering and far less sloppy.
The Lookbook
As you will see below, the industry strictly adheres to this rule. All the campaigns and lookbook produced which feature tailoring will always leave the bottom button undone:

The Mistake: Sock Faux Pas
It’s often said that the devil is in the detail and this is no truer than when it comes to fashion and style. While the more forefront accessories like pocket squares, ties, jewellery etc. have had that extra bit of attention lately, socks have occasionally been neglected and faux pas have been left to rule the day.
There are a number of style rules when it comes to lining your feet:
- White gym socks should be confined to the gym, or the bin.
- If we can see flesh over the top of your socks then they are too short, yes this includes when you’re sitting, or wearing trainer socks – unless you are engaging in some sort of physical activity in which case it’ll slide.
- Keep your socks as short as possible when it comes to wearing them with shorts, no-show or invisible socks are the perfect ticket here, a visible sock line can easily throw an otherwise great look.
- Novelty socks? Take the ‘velty’ away and there’s your answer.
- This last one isn’t so much of a style rule but a lifestyle one. When it comes to socks in the sack, do you partner a favour and remove them; it looks a little bit ridiculous.
The Analysis
As mentioned above, a poorly positioned glimpse of a white or Homer Simpson sock can ruin an otherwise well-articulated look. Sock faux pas not only possess the innate ability to ruin a good outfit but also present an often missed opportunity to stamp some individuality and flair on your attire.
The Solution
Solving your sock problems is as simple as learning the rules and sorting out your sock draw. Invisible (no-show) socks are a fantastic investment when perfecting the art of going sockless. Coloured or patterned (not novelty) socks are also worth some consideration as they add the option of bringing some creativity to your outfit. Finally, a couple of pairs of neutral socks are an absolute essential – especially when you’re after a really professional look.
Remember, good sock etiquette is an essential component of a wholly stylish gent.
Men’s Sock Picks
- Falke Invisible Step Black Socks

- Topman Grey Invisible Shoeliners

- White Invisible Socks

- Polka Dot Socks

- Topman Block Striped 5 Pack Socks

- White Mountaineering Mens Border Pattern Jacquard Middle Socks

- Richard James Panelled Ribbed Cotton Socks

- Happy Socks Argyle Socks

- River Island 3-pack Animal Print Socks

- Falke Charcoal Firenze Fine Cotton Sock

- Calvin Klein Two Pack Socks

- Pantherella Ribbed Cotton-blend Socks

The Mistake: Overt Designer Labels
It’s often stated that you get what you pay for and this is often proves true, especially when it comes to shoes and suits. Of course, we all love a good bit of designer clothing; nothing beats an iconic Burberry trench or Fred Perry polo but the faux pas come when slogans and logos take up the majority of the garment and garnish all the attention.
The Analysis
Discretion is the new face of luxury and style. Keeping logos and labels out of people’s faces is a much sleeker way to wear designer clothing. Brandishing the AllSaints Ram on every one of your garments doesn’t automatically make you ‘cool and edgy’, just like a polo shirt with the largest Ralph Lauren Horse on it doesn’t make you appear wealthy or ‘Preppy’.
Remember that obvious or brash designer labels do very little for perception, both physically and mentally.
The Solution
The solution is, again, simple: Tone down your wardrobe with basics and discreet designer attire. The Scandinavian brands often prefer no branding what so ever on their pieces, and us Brits could learn a lot from this. You should be buying clothes that fit you perfectly, integrate into your existing wardorbe seamlessly and that you know can work in multiple scenarios/outfits – rather than just buying all the latest releases from big name designers.
Money may buy expensive clothing but it doesn’t buy instant style, so avoid looking like a walking billboard – we suggest making the brand work for you and not the other way around!
- Polo Ralph Lauren Striped Fine-knit Cotton-jersey T-shirt

- Burberry London Trench 37 Cotton Gabardine Coat

- Reiss Orpwood

- Allsaints Form Blazer

- Allsaints Arlington Boat Neck T-shirt

- Reiss Kris

- Paul Smith Jeans Raglan Sleeve Denim Shirt

- Suit Basic Elbow Patch Sweatshirt

- Alexander Mcqueen Men’s Silk & Cashmere V-neck Sweater

- Farah Vintage Albany Tobacco Twill Chinos

- Nudie Jeans Slim Jim Dry Broken Twill Slim Jeans

- Fred Perry Laurel Wreath Lunar Grey Broken Tipping Polo Shirt

Conclusion
There we have it, three of the most common style mistakes, witnessed on a daily basis (but hopefully not for much longer.) Stamping out these simple style slip-ups can be just as important as overhauling your entire image with a new wardrobe. Being stylish is not a God-given gift and is often a simple matter of learning the rules and customs that make for a well-dressed gent.
So what we want to know is:
- What are the top style sins you see everyday?
- Have you ever found yourself slipping on the standard style rules? How did you solve them?
- What would be your number one style tip?
As per usual let us know in the comments below.
Alex
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The one that really grinds my gears is ill fitting suits. Seeing men wearing suits that go really baggy at the bottom is appalling. Along with men wearing really long / large suit jackets with jeans.
Double denim or running shoes/trainers with jeans. They just don’t work for me, really get on my wick.
Double denim is a totally valid look done right – it simply never seems to be done right.
I definitely agree with the visible logos point. Infact I’d say text in general is a thing to avoid, even more so if the text is ‘ironic’. Swedish brand ACNE are one of my favorite brands because they usually nail the whole Scandinavian minimalism thing, but I’d consider this sweater the definition of “style mistake” : http://shop.acnestudios.com/shop/men/men-s-spring-2012/sweaters/college-omg-ss12.html#
Agree with the sweater – anything ‘humorous’ should be left well alone, along with the logos.
I think in general the Scandinavians do everything right – it is all about fit, practicality and high quality construction – you will hardly ever find any sort of branding/logos on their clothes.
“Money may buy expensive clothing but it doesn’t buy instant style, so avoid looking like a walking billboard – we suggest making the brand work for you and not the other way around!”
Right on the money !
Flip-flops anywhere other than the beach or poolside.
I agree with what you say regarding the buttoning issue…at the same time however, featured style icon david gandy have recently worn outfits praised for the style with all buttons ‘buttoned up’? eg David Gandy at men’s fashion week
http://www.metro.co.uk/lifestyle/893803-london-fashion-week-for-men-set-to-launch-in-june
seen in this photo
The bottom of the waistcoat splits, which is why it looks fine here. If it buttoned to the bottom it wouldn’t look particularly good.
I agree with a lot of this. Take a look at Vivarati for some really cool designer socks. I got the compound ones and I always pick them when I’m doing something awesome.
Also regarding the overt designer labels, I found this out the hard way by buying lots of Hugo Boss stuff. I liked the make for a while and they have some really nice and well fitting stuff. However I soon realised that most of the designer brand of Hugo was to just put Hugo Boss on everything visible. Not as stylish as if I couldn’t see it :P
Nice article, I’ll keep note of the buttoning thing.
I’m probably going to sound crazy, but I think the belt / trouser line showing through the bottom opening of a blazer spoils the relaxed look of the single button being done up (the top left of the first lookbook shows what I mean), which is why I don’t get the button rule. If you could do both buttons up, it would hide the line and look a lot nicer if you ask me. I do however like the same look with a cardigan (the bottom button or two undone of course), as it keeps the shape flowing down but also covers the trouser line (the second image down on the left of the first lookbook is a perfect example of this).
My top style tip would be to always stand up straight, good posture means almost as much in an outfit as a good pair of shoes.
Although you’ve already mentioned it, the most irritating and most common style mistake I see is fit. Men just do not know what size they or they are incapable of branching out and trying a new size.
Got to say that there can be exceptions to the sock rule.
I bought a pack of Beano/Dandy socks from Marks and Spencer’s last year. They’ve each got a simple cartoon character placed within a coloured circle, the rest is a black sock. Because they’re good, primary colours I’ve been able to coordinate them into outfits.
I’ve actually had people comment that the fun, yet matching, socks really work – so I’d take that as an exception to the rule!
I always leave my top shirt button undone, even when I wear a tie. I carry it off well. Does anyone else do this?
Things I can’t stand with men wearing suits -
Wearing a suit and carrying a rucksack.
Wearing a suit with rubbish shoes.
Chinos worn with a shirt and tie (and often a jacket).
Casual shirts worn with suit and tie.
I’ve noticed recently that Britain’s youth are trying to bring back the white gym sock in all manner of surprising ways. Just you look on lookbook.nu. This is not my endorsement, just a little reminder that pining down hard and fast rules for fashion is almost always a waste of time. All trends begin as an exception to the rule, be it buttons or socks or anything else.
Also I should add I saw two newsreaders on TV today wearing both buttons done up on two-button suit jackets. I really don’t see anything wrong with it, and I just can’t understand the rule, especially if it did come into play because a major figure couldn’t do them all up.
If the trend was instead to have both buttons done up, and a “normal” person of a large size had to undo one to wear the jacket, everyone would criticise him for either an ill-fitting jacket, or probably with today’s society, criticise him for being too large.
Sunglasses worn with a tie…it’s either or, never together
I disagree, it is possible to pull off! Nick Wooster does here IMO http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_0FjPCtl8nPY/TCJoWAImvoI/AAAAAAAAIXw/xJBqR5QRtu8/s400/CC_2010_0051.jpg
Massive knots on ties. Horrendous!!!
I think there could be an exception to the buttoning rule. Because what about a vintage military jacket which normally (in the army) ought to be buttoned up. Okay, pulling off a vintage military jacket doesn’t make you a soldier, so the button rule could easily be applied to these items. But with one loose button it just doesn’t look right. What is your opinion?
Got to say, grown men with beano/dandy characters on their socks is rather sad. Anyone who tells you otherwise has no taste.
as for newsreaders with their jackets all buttoned up, hardly style icons are they? The reason not to fasten all the buttons on a jacket is simply because it looks better. It’s not a rule to understand, just a case of what looks more stylish. Fully buttoned up looks so square, it’s geek/nerd territory.
They may not be style icons, but they’re in the public eye enough that I believe this rule isn’t as hard set as people make it out to be (if it was, even they would be undoing a button). And to me the argument against it being square is irrelevant, because whilst you remove some squareness from the bottom of the jacket, you gain squareness from the belt line that was previously covered. An argument against squareness would also suggest you dislike double breasted jackets, which are even more square at the bottom than a single breasted jacket done up.
As for being more stylish, I’d agree if you’re going for a relaxed, non-formal look, backed up by relaxed undergarments. To me though, going for a formal style and then having the jacket splay out massively is just awful. As it is, though, none of the relevant images in that look book could pass for formal situations anyway, so it’s not as much of an issue, but if I was going for a relaxed look I’d lose the belt at least.
Taking the Liverano stance, only navy socks will do haha
As embarrassing as it sounds, I had been a victim of the gym socks fashion massacre. Now, I’m sporting colored socks in all occasions even in school. From paisley, florals, polkas, etc. I buy just about anything that attracts my eyes but also not compromising the fit, length and comfort.
men wearing black shoes and brown belts or vice versa. those ones just tick me off.
Great piece, especially regarding wearing brands too often and too much in your face. I try and make sure anything I buy looks good 1st, then worry about the brand. I found this the case with my new Love Red Brooklyn shirt. Collegues love the small details on it and the fact that only 25 have been made. I have number 14!
I never buy pieces with the brand name on it. On a field trip to London my class got a few hours free on Covent Garden. There i bought a gilet from Nicole Fahri. One of the girls of my class (i think she was jealous or something) said “OMG it doesn’t even have the brandname mentioned on it you don’t even see its designer. Why should i wear the name of the brand or the designer? i’m not their advertiser.
Yes, I agree, I bought a black and white (striped) with no branding Burbrerry T-Shirt, a and got pretty much the same response..
Hey, just want to start with that I enjoy reading fashionbeans alot.
Anyhow, I just wanted to come with a thought.
I know you mentioned not to wear too much logos on different polos or shirts or whatever. In my opinion the logo’s kinda does something with the garments, like… compare two grey polo shirts to eachother, but the difference is that one of them has a Ralph Lauren Polo pony on it, I’d say that because of the pony, the shirt looks a little bit more what shall i say… less boring, and gives the garments something, compared to a more basic casual grey shirt
what do you think?
But then it looks like you are trying to show off because you can afford to get a ralph lauren top, it just looks as if you’re trying too hard to show others you wear branded or designer clothes.
I love this article and agree with everything in it. I would like to say however that I absolutely hate how mens underwear has so much branding, it’s gaudy. Does anyone know any brands that make underwear without any visible branding?
I don’t know about the logo issue. As a die hard preppy fan, it’s hard to say that there is anything tasteless about POLO Ralph Lauren. Fit is more important, and some of the RL logos are really beautiful. Ultimately, if you like it you should wear it. People are responsible for their own reactions to your appearance.