Gieves & Hawkes SS14 Review
Occupying the finest tailoring address in the world, No.1 Savile Row resident Gieves & Hawkes has demonstrated that even heritage and prestige needs a new lease of life to ensure continued success. Just as military practices change through the years, so does fashion and style.
Jason Basmajian, Gieves & Hawkes’ creative director, understands the masculinity and heritage of the brand but also the need for creative flair going forward. This dynamism was evident in his first collection for the brand, AW13, with its slimmer silhouettes and vibrant new colour palette. Building on the success of that collection comes the spring/summer 2014 range, featured as part of London Collections: MEN.
Inspired by Gieves & Hawkes’ history of dressing famous adventurers and explorers and the traditions of bespoke, the latest collection is contemporary in its fresh mix of sartorial, military and sportswear styling.
The colour palette centres on soft earth tones – ivory and beige is complemented by rose, navy, khaki and dark brown – ensuring the collection is both light and fresh, as well as seasonally-appropriate.
With the majority of the collection handmade in England, the tailoring is balanced by a focused selection of weekend wear, performance outerwear, knitwear, swimwear and accessories to tackle all occasions next summer.
A stone double-breasted featherweight silk/linen herringbone suit, worn with an olive linen crew neck and graphic regimental tan/ivory foulard.
A British army inspired olive waxed-cotton military blouson coat paired with a navy cable knit linen crew, navy Bermudas, canvas/leather lace-up brogues and a monogrammed rucksack.
A tangerine pea coat matched with khaki cotton trousers, a navy/white stripe linen knit t-shirt and khaki espadrilles.
The ‘British’ blazer, double-breasted in bright blue mohair, with belted back and military pocket detail; worn with white-on-white seersucker shorts and monogrammed caramel linen slippers.
There was even a modern take on the current safari trend with a tailored safari jacket in chocolate suede nubuck.
Finally, a Gieves & Hawkes collection wouldn’t be complete without a formal wear showing. This came in the form of a shawl lapel raw silk ivory dinner jacket with navy dress trousers.
The SS14 collection also boasted an impressive array of English hand-crafted footwear, made from a British last, which included everything from ‘GH’ embroidered slippers and tasselled loafers through to leather correspondent shoes and lace-ups in mulberry, ivory, navy and brown.
The latest collection is both bright and simplistic in design. Centring on meticulous tailoring and fresh vibrant colours, ‘The Grand Tour’ SS14 range is ready to travel and electrify the world, be it from sun lounger to safari.