Jonathan Saunders SS14 Review
Jonathan Saunders, the celebrated master of colourist of British Fashion, consistently hits the sartorial nail on the head for sheer bold and bright ingenuity. At London Collections: MEN, the Glaswegian-born designer certainly lived up to his moniker with an artful and inspired SS14 menswear collection.
Staged in a basement setting in Soho, the shadowy presentation space was adorned with red plastic strips and multi-tone spot lights, whilst hazy images of urban landscapes were projected on the walls, bringing an enigmatic mood to the exhibition.
Once your eyes had adjusted to the curious lighting, they were immediately drawn to the lean waif-like models clad in a dynamic combination of zesty highlighter hues and complex prints, with canary yellows, graduating blues, greens and reds dominating the collection.
An impeccably cut trench and jackets with Saunders’ trademark circle print were layered over polka dot shirts and pleated colour-block trousers, whilst bombers and sweatshirts gave architectural definition to the offering, featuring ombre hue treatments, oversized digital floral prints and high-shine metallic finishes. Shirting was ultra-modern, sporting short-sleeve constructions and an inventive futurist dot-print fabric with a high-gloss, rubberised finish; it was an ingenious technical combination that only Saunders could have produced.
Going against the trend for round toe footwear, Saunders shod his models in point toe lace-ups featuring contrast soles and hints of lustrous embellishment that saw the 1960s winklepicker silhouette reworked for the modern man.
Luxury Bond Street leather brand Smythson collaborated with the designer to produce the sleek and elegant colour-block satchels which models held, whilst sunglasses with primary-hued tint lenses lent a final flash of colour to the overall look.
It seems surprising that Saunders is relatively new to the menswear arena; in a few short seasons, he seems to have truly honed his craft, giving his signature eye-catching prints a masculine sensibility without detracting from his unique design aesthetic.