Tom Ford: Autumn/Winter 2013
Tom Ford, who achieved international recognition in the early nineties by increasing sales in (then) failing Italian fashion house Gucci by ninety per cent, has gone from strength to strength ever since. His London Collections: MEN debut last week was no exception, as he presented fashion fans with a selection that seamlessly amalgamates aspects from the last fifty years of men’s fashion into one stunning collection.
The AW13 range for his eponymous fashion label harks back to the sixties, taking inspiration from mod culture and sharp tailoring, injected with a patriotic, anglophile aesthetic. Roll necks worn beneath tailored suit blazers and high cut waistcoats create what Ford terms a “truer” silhouette – creating a focus on streamlined tailoring, without it being too tight.
He explained some of the logic behind the sharp, linear appearance of the collection to Vogue, commenting that efficiently working the “lapel-to-head ratio” can actually reduce the size of one’s head.
Ford also referenced Cary Grant as his inspiration for the collection, particularly at ankle level; trousers are cut or cuffed slightly above the ankle for a flash of colour. “No matter what the man wore, he always managed to show his cool blue socks,” Ford explained, talking to GQ Magazine.
To a sophisticated librarian-esque mix of slim fit suits – cut from a very sixties/seventies colour palette of browns, yellows and greys – Ford adds ostentatious fur coats and cosy layers of Fair Isle sweaters and duffels, confessing “I haven’t designed a Fair Isle sweater since the Eighties”.
Despite the obvious nod to earlier decades in this offering, the collection looks anything but dated. “It’s the simple things, the tiny things you change, that move it along,” Ford explained.
Overall, the iconic designer’s debut at LC:M lived up to the preceding hype, and we hope Ford continues to back our great nation’s desire to become a true menswear capital in future seasons.