Thinking Outside The Box
When winter comes, the name of the game is layering. And it really is an either love it or hate it sort of thing for most people. Some feel too restricted and confined wearing so many layers and would much rather stick to one ‘big arse’ coat. Others relish the idea of being able to add new dimensions to their look with the possibility of adding or removing layers as the weather changes throughout the day. I guess it just comes down to whether you’re a summer or a winter person.
We’ve been through the basics of layering already: make sure to layer thin to thick and be aware of the textures and fabrics that you’re incorporating.
The real trick, as with most things in this menswear game, is how to put a twist on it. How can you layer your clothing in a unique, interesting but still stylish way? Let’s face it, there are only so many times you can do the whole shirt-jumper-jacket look, right? The good news is that now you understand the rules, you can go about breaking them. Or bending them slightly. It depends on how hardcore you really are.
With no more sartorial piffle on my part, here are a few ideas to help you start thinking outside of that pesky layering box.
Experimenting With Layering
The Denim Jacket
Everyone’s favourite spring/summer jacket can also be utilised during the colder months.
Just make sure that when you purchase this little beauty it fits you like a glove – and bear in mind that denim wears in the more you use it.
Having it fit you this way means the jacket should easily fit underneath a coat or even a suit jacket, giving you an extra layer of protection from the elements and a nice contrast of texture within your outfit.

- Allsaints Keswick Denim Jacket

- Cheap Monday Tobias Denim Jacket

- River Island Denim Jacket

- Topman Oversized Denim Western Jacket

- Allsaints Kiku Denim Jacket

- Allsaints Iwate Jacket

- Jean.machine J.m-4 Slim-fit Overdyed-denim Jacket

- Religion Black Denim Jacket

- J.crew Washed-denim Jacket

I Be Shawl-in’ Part 1
I’m not going to lie, shawl neck cardigans are a big favourite of mine when it comes to layering in the winter. It doesn’t matter if they’re huge chunky cable knits or a fine gauge number; they always end up making an appearance.
My go-to for a couple of seasons now has been to pair it with tailored pieces in rugged fabrics like tweed and corduroy. For example, try a pair of brown corduroy trousers with an indigo chambray dress shirt under a grey tweed waistcoat. If you are heading out into the elements, throw over a navy shawl cardigan made from hefty wool to give your look that extra rugged, masculine edge.

- Shore Leave Grey Flecked Shawl Cardigan

- Uniqlo Men Shawl Collar Cardigan

- Apc Chale A Cotes Blanc Casse Cardigan

- Reiss Milton Textured Shawl Cardi Navy

- Superdry Shawl Quilted Cardigan

- Dunhill Ribbed Shawl-collar Wool Cardigan

- Esprit Cardigan

- Asos Cable Cardigan

- Textured Shawl Cardigan

- Ps By Paul Smith Textured-knit Cotton Cardigan

- Ted Baker Brurinz – Shawl Neck Cardigan

- Ted Baker Bosport – Tweed Front Cardigan

I Be Shawl-in’ Part 2
But that’s not all a shawl neck cardigan is good for. A finer gauge version made from a more luxurious material, perhaps with a pattern, can be layered underneath as well.
You can use it in the same way you would the denim jacket – but I prefer to layer them under a suit jacket or blazer with a shirt and tie. Not only do they provide insulation, you can also flip the collar and have it act as a makeshift scarf.
If you’re heading out in the evening, just lose the jacket for a perfect smart-casual look.
Gilet, The Other Way
We’ve all seen people using a gilet as an outer layer when they’re out and about. Even Bruno Cucinelli enjoys layering them over a suit. But why not mix it up and layer it under your suit? It will add a nice point of difference to your everyday work look and keep you warm when making the commute.
Obviously, take it off when you get indoors – that would just be weird.

- American Apparel Poplin Zip Vest

- Samsoe Samsoe Quilted Gilet

- Regatta Lackland Reversible Gilet

- Barbour Bosun Quilt Gilet Black

- Penfield Clermont Shawl Collar Gilet

- Penfield Outback Insulated Gilet

- Easy Padded Gilet

- Polo Ralph Lauren J6967 Aviator Epsom Vest

- Dunhill Reversible Padded Wool Gilet

Knits On Knits On Knits
And occasionally on shirts. Basically, what I mean by this is, use your knitwear more than once fools!
It comes in all shapes and sizes after all. A thin roll neck under a cardigan? Check. A fine v-neck jumper under a flannel plaid shirt? Check. Or why not swap the cardigan and the shirt around? I’ve seen plenty of people rocking their roll necks under beefier shirts made out of flannel or corduroy this season and it looks pretty sophisticated.
Remember, think outside the box and find out what works for you.

Final Word
So there you have it, a few examples of how to go about layering your looks differently this season. Obviously, these looks lend themselves to mild/medium cold days. If it is cold as sin outside, then by all means do break out the ‘huge arse’ parka and walk around in the snow, Michelin Man style.
As always, I want to hear what you guys are thinking, so make sure to leave your tasty mind treats in the oven that is the comments section below.
Matt Allinson




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Seriously, some of these looks are dubious at best. A shawl cardigan outside of a sport jacket – really?? A what did you call it – ”Gilet – inside or outside anything?? And while you didn’t, I’ve read other blogs which suggest a denim jacket can work under a blazer – now that’s really jumping the shark.
I suggest you try it, you’d be surprised. At first, I was apprehensive of having a denim jacket because I mostly have jeans and not enough non-jeans. Now, I can’t get enough of my vintage-wash Levi’s jacket. I’ve done everything from layering stuff over it from a down vest to a peacoat. Hell, I’m wearing a down vest over a cotton blazer.
Seriously, you’re missing half of your life not trying this out.
Surely if you are doing the gilet under the suit, the suit can’t fit right?
Strangley, one of the more unkempt and elderly fellows in my office has started wearing a gilet over his (tatty) blazer. Unsuprisingly this did not tramsform him into a style icon (in my view at least). It has also prevented me from trying it lest I look like him!
I’m all over this. It’s about mixing it up and finding out what works and what doesn’t. Here are another couple of articles on the same theme…
http://tsbmen.com/22392/unexpected-layering-part-i/
http://tsbmen.com/22474/unexpected-layering-pt-ii/
I’d like to add that when getting a denim jacket, check out your local vintage shops. They have loads of jackets with added character.
Now this is an article I can get behind! I like the idea of mixing things up, and I’ve regularly worn a rollneck under a cardigan this winter, it adds a little bit more to a look.
I have to agree with Gazman, this trend really doesn’t work for me. It looks sloppy – like you didn’t have the right things to wear and you just had to chuck on anything to keep warm.
Cardigan under blazer etc etc is fine – it’s when you start wearing a jacket under stuff that it just looks wrong imo. At best you look tryhard, at worst you look homeless.
Dubious about cardi over blazer but gilet under blazer works very well as long as the fit of your jacket allows layering underneath and the gilet is a thin body hugging variety. ( eg quilted ) . Really getting into that look right now !
Great article thanks. Unfortunately personally I find I get far too hot when I layer more than two items :-)
What is the coat in the top middle photo please?
Those of us who are (frankly) past it, associate the denim jacket as an inner layer with Bender. Not the robot from Futurama, but Judd Nelson’s character from The Breakfast Club. Can’t say he’s a role model of mine – not now, anyway!
dunno if its just me, but why do denim jackets always look too short on people?
Very skeptical about some of these layering ideas. It isn’t being conservative to say that jackets should be worn as the exterior garment; that’s just sensical.
Where does it end? How about an Oxford Shirt over a Puffa Jacket? A blazer underneath a waistcoat? A beanie over a trapper? Hell, it’s almost akin to putting your underwear on over your trews!
For me, layering works well when the items increase in thickness from inside outwards. Eg. vest, shirt, merino jumper, blazer, overcoat. Simples.
Some really great and interesting feedback here guys. I’m surprised at the number of you who don’t like the idea of it! A lot the suggestions that were mentioned in the article are all based on the concept of layering thin to thick, like you would with anything.
When layering the denim jacket, actually buy a proper one, not these crossovers in highstreets that have lining in them. My Levis one is constructed of just one sheet of denim – a perfect jacket for S/S and a perfect inbetween layer in winter. The same goes for a Gilet – I guess a lot of you are thinking of the huge puffa jackets underneath a suit jacket.
The same goes for a cardigan over a jacket, invest in one of those huge thick wool flannel versions, it’s just like wearing a coat but more unstructured.
I think it’d be a shame to not try out at least a few of these looks as it can not only give new life to a tried and tested look, but the pieces themselves too.
Ive tried all of them apart from the gillet one and they are all great ideas, its about how you wear them.
I was thinking (a long time ago) about the gilet under a trench coat but i wanted one in quilted cream but couldn’t find one so i gave up the search. I wanted a cream one rather than a navy or green one because navy and green are so standard yet i also wanted a colour that complemented my Indian skin tone (milky tea colour). The colour and skin tone article left me more confused, any other good colour options?
I feel like these only look cool on posing models. Anyone on the street attempting any of these will just look uncomfortable and impractical. Fashion is moving further and further towards minimalism anyway, why would this be a good idea?