According to head designer Veronique Nichanian, the 2013 theme at Hermes is “chic le sport” – and this is exactly what was embodied in the most recent collection shown at Paris Fashion Week. Nichinian, who has been a part of the fashion house for twenty-one years, has always loved material, and this was evident here with a huge emphasis on fabrics. Quilting, high-shine fabrics, a variety of textures, snake skin effects on leather, velvets and suedes could all be found as models hit the runway.
A fairly laid back colour palette of charcoals, teals and greys was lifted with pops of colour from fuchsias and bright yellows in clashing combinations that really shouldn’t work but, somehow, did. This theme was also echoed in the accessories, with brief, linear flashes of bright colours adorning belts.
Structured colour blocking in light knits was cleverly used to emphasise the block-like silhouettes created by some of the jackets, with a simple splash of colour lifting the ordinary to extraordinary.
Nichanian, who once said “I don’t do fashion, I do clothes”, described it as a “very energetic” collection. However, order and practicality was not forgotten, with expert use of controlled layering simultaneously creating a very carefree yet put together approach to styling.
Roll necks were a staple here, worn alone under a skinny lapel blazer or swathed in luxurious layers of thicker knits. The current sport luxe trend was also prominent, with tracksuit trousers and brightly laced ski-style boots mixing effortlessly with more tailored pieces.
Overall, the collection shone – being neither too brash nor too subtle to make an impact.