The appeal of certain middle eastern cities is enhanced by the first shadows of the night, the flashes of moonlight, the rustling along the walls, the open doors which offer a glimpse of the arches, the columns and the curtains moved by the winds. Cities that could not be distorted by any colonization or technological era, due to their strong character, their essence as well as their fascinating and slightly enigmatic souls.
This is the ideal environment in which the Cavalli man moves in magical symphony. A sharp gentleman, fascinating, with a strong character permeated by a certain mystery. Roberto Cavalli together with his son Daniele have endeavored to radically change the direction of this man since the past collection: not only with a more rigorous research, experimentation and sartoriality, but also with different means of communication.
Therefore no fashion shows, but total looks that in the midst of this suggestive ambience transform themselves in lively installations full of references.
If months ago the Autumn/Winter creations found their righteous collocation in the reenactment of a refined English Gentlemen’s Club, the Spring/Summer 2014 await the early hours of the evening searching for their allegorical adaptation in an antique private courtyard situated in Via Cappuccio, one of the streets of Milan where rare medieval testimonies from the 1200’s still survive.
The perfect ambience for a man that, although without weapons, retraces the same pride, posture and artisanal expertise in his attire, as the ancient knights.
It is a jacket which is similar to a suit of armor, launching flashes of light with the expertise of its textiles and the extraordinary originality of its fantasies.
Amongst colonnade of the patio, where amber colored hand-wrought iron lamps contribute to the creation of a timeless atmosphere, the new Cavalli knight shows himself in all his elegance, with 19 total looks featured on sartorial busts, but also worn by the models portrayed in the images shot by English photographer Rankin (www.rankin.co.uk).
It is here where the new Cavalli gentleman proudly displays his precious collection of knives, which are part of the personal collection of the most famous knife expert in the world: Lorenzi of via Montenapoleone.
Clearly in such a context, the knife loses its connotation of weapon and truly appears in its simplicity for what it is: a rare, precious and artisanal object, capable of illuminating and astonish thanks to the brightness of its blade.
But their display isn’t simply a virile satisfaction. The Damascus blades play a defined role in this new Spring/Summer wardrobe.
The fantasies on the chest of the shirt or the fragmented geometries on the textiles on the jackets are none other than pieces of those Damascus details artistically elaborated with the teleidoscope, which by now is the chosen instrument for the renewing of the initial traditions of the Florentine Maison: printing on leather and fabric.
But there is also a precise reference to the glare of the blades in the brilliance of the silk accents
combined with light wools, the jacquard fabrics and the embellishments.
Although intended for a lighter season, this collection favors darker tones divided in four currents: beige/brown, variables of blue, white/black, night.
An elegant creativity which is never out of line. Double-breasted unimpeachable coats, jackets and shirts printed tone-on-tone, embossed embroideries. An iconic piece? A black leather jacket in
lightweight embossed leather with woven zippers.
If during the evening the gentleman has dandy inclinations, he can dress in burgundy, maintaining a sartorial rigor. Shirts and jackets follow the silhouette of body, the pinched pants yield easiness.
Emphasis on jacquard, light wool and cotton.
In the soundtrack to the night, Nick Cave and his band ‘The Bad Seeds’ stand out. This songwriter is a particular inspiration for Daniele Cavalli. And it certainly isn’t a coincidence that Nick prefers to dress in darker tones, has the air of a mysterious knight in his voice, and that many of his songs can be sharp as knives.
Music: “Howl” – The Wanton Bishops