Lapellation
When adding a blazer, suit or tuxedo to your wardrobe, foremost among your considerations tend to be its cut, colour, the material it’s made from and the overall style, such as single-button or double-breasted. Of course, you’d be perfectly correct to assume that these variables are indeed the most important when it comes to how a jacket looks on you – but how many of you have ever honestly considered the lapel in all its nuances? Not many, we imagine. And why would you? It’s merely a redundant affectation from the 1800s, right? Like the human appendix, it’s completely without purpose, but you’d rather it was there than not since you’ve spent many a school-uniformed year growing up with it. In actual fact, the humble lapel is vitally important to the shape of the blazer and how it sits on you. That there has only ever been three distinct styles of lapel in the entire history of menswear suggests that it isn’t something to be tinkering about with too much. But within these three styles, the size, positioning and geometry can vary massively. So to help you navigate the minefield you never knew even existed (ignorance is bliss but knowledge is better), the following guide will ensure you pick the right lapel every time.
The Peak Lapel
So called because of the pointed cut, the peak lapel can be traced back to the frock coats of Louis XIV’s reign in the sixteenth century. Historians believe they came about simply out of a necessity to keep cool by folding back the outermost part of the coat or, similarly, out of the need to keep the neck warm and dry in inclement weather. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, the peak lapel found its way onto many single-breasted suit and dinner jackets. Yet it is most at home on a double-breasted blazer since it’s an extension of the line of the jacket and thus gives the impression of broader shoulders. Saying that, Gieves & Hawkes and Dunhill both included peaked single-breasted jackets in their recent SS15 collections as if to prove that exceptional tailoring can always break the rules and get away with it:
Due to their association with morning coats and tailcoats, the peak lapel is by nature a more formal style and will instantly take any outfit up a notch. They also make an unapologetic statement and are guaranteed to have you standing out from the notch-lapelled crowd, so they need to be worn with confidence. Just how ‘peaky’ your peaks should be depends on your own physical dimensions. If you’re slim and narrow shouldered then you should opt for small peaks, and vice versa. Furthermore, it’s important to consider where in the lapel the peak is positioned. Hardy Amies’ SS15 showcase, for example, featured gorgeous double-breasted jackets with peaks that finished on the collar bone, giving the appearance of height – perfect for shorter gents or those carrying a few extra pounds who desire a lengthening effect. Pick a dark coloured suit and this illusion is amplified further. Canali was another brand that had some fantastic examples of classic peak blazers in their latest collection, while Brioni revealed a peaked tuxedo jacket to die for, proving that Italians are always right on the money when it comes to the double-breasted cut:
Modern Lookbook Inspiration
Key Styles
- Topman Blue Skinny Fit Tuxedo Lapel Blazer
- Topman Navy Jacquard Contrast Peak Skinny Suit Jacket
- Topman Light Grey Suit Jacket
- River Island Light Blue Double Breasted Blazer
- He By Mango Double-breasted Unstructured Blazer
- He By Mango Double-breasted Jersey Blazer
- Ovadia & Sons Slim-fit Woven-wool Double-breasted Blazer
- Reiss Heart Shawl Collar Tuxedo Jacket Midnight
- Topman Grey Jacquard Skinny Suit Jacket
- River Island Navy Leather-look Shawl Collar Blazer
- Etro Slim-fit Faux Suede-collar Cotton Blazer
- Mcq Alexander Mcqueen Black Slim-fit Twill Tuxedo Jacket
- Austin Reed Nick Hart Blue Mohair Jacket
Final Word
The three lapels showcased above are firmly engrained in the very fabric of menswear, with each bringing its own unique characteristics and personality to any modern gent’s tailoring collection. But it’s important to remember that excluding true formal occasions, there are no right or wrong answers when it comes to picking a lapel style – experiment and find what works best for your wardrobe and body type. Make sure you let us know what type of lapel you prefer and for what occasions, in the comments section below…
