James Long Autumn/Winter 2014
In the same week FashionBeans partnered with Burberry, the site also had exclusive backstage access at James Long’s AW14 London Collections: MEN show.
Held at The Old Sorting Office in London’s New Oxford Street, the atmosphere backstage was electric. FashionBeans caught up with the make-up and hair teams as they created minimal, runway-ready looks to emphasise the model’s faces. The idea behind hair was futuristic, complemented by the model’s heads, which were wrapped in cling film before being painted blue.
Long, who made the ShortList ‘Brit List’ late last year, spoke about the inspiration behind the collection. He told FashionBeans his travels to Japan in 2013 played a big part in putting the line together. When asked to describe the theme, he referred to a mix of “primitive sci-fi with a bit cos-play [Costume play].”
Both the sci-fi and Japanese references were evident throughout the looks, with quilted outerwear featuring heavily. The quilting appeared in various sizes, creating an abstract, architectural aesthetic.
Reversible jackets were on show, with the padding effect visible through mesh on the other side. Compartmentalised fabrics also featured to give pieces geometrical patterns and added texture.
The line had a sports luxe feel, with tracksuit bottoms carrying a trouser-like quality, and layers of meshing, which created a striking effect. Mesh-panelled baseball boots, made in collaboration with Kurt Geiger, completed the outfits.
Long let FashionBeans in on his personal favourite piece: a quilted bomber jacket with its use of black, white, blue and red colour blocks.
The BFC award-winning designer brought 2014’s first Collections to a close by hosting a party in association with Browns and GQ Style. More information can be found at JamesLonguk.com with previous collections still available at Browns, Far Fetch and Harvey Nichols.