Pitti Uomo 86

Once the various fashion weeks around the world kick off, it can be a bit of a struggle to keep up. With so many shows going on within the space of three weeks, it’s hard to see the wood for the trees. (Or should that be the classics for the trends?)

Luckily, that’s where FashionBeans comes in – each season we help identify all the major trends and show you how to incorporate them into your everyday life.

However, the one fashion event that is having more and more influence on the industry is actually a trade show. Twice a year, flocks of stylish men descend upon Florence, Italy, for Pitti Uomo: 59,000 square metres of exhibition space filled with everything from suiting to streetwear. It’s a buyer’s dream for all things related to men’s fashion.

Not only does the event provide a realistic idea of what will be on our radar in the seasons to come, but it’s also a street style whirlwind – with every step, corner and walkway containing the very best dressed of the menswear realm. In fact, we often hear stories of people spending well over a month preparing just three or four looks they intend to wear to Pitti, and rightly so – one snap smoking a cigarette on the right corner can take you from Nemo Nobody to Robert Rabensteiner in a heartbeat. No pressure, right?

Over the years it has become the sartorially-inclined man’s style Mecca and so rather than having to sift through every blog post, sneak peek preview and street style shot yourself, we’ve compiled a list of every key piece and trend that came out of Pitti Uomo this season…

Blue Tailoring Is Bigger Than Ever

In AW13 we reported how tonal blue outfits and the ‘All-Navy Everything’ look were rapidly developing trends within the menswear community, and it seems they are still going strong for SS14.

This is especially true when it comes to blue tailoring. Whether it was double-breasted, Glen Plaid, navy three-pieces or petrol blue colour ways, you couldn’t escape the hue at Pitti this year.

The best thing about blue is that it looks great with everything – whether it’s with other shades of blue or browns, greens and reds – and allows you to stay firmly in your comfort zone. With this in mind, why not pick up a blue tailored jacket with a twist this season and wear the hell out of it?

Nam for Grazia.it Pitti Uomo 86 Street StyleNam for Grazia.it

Gioconda Rafanelli & August Kaciuruba for buro247.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleGioconda Rafanelli & August Kaciuruba for buro247.com

Nam for Grazia.it Pitti Uomo 86 Street StyleNam for Grazia.it

Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Blue Tailoring Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

reiss ss14burton ss14Boglioli ss15tommy hilfiger tailored ss14zara man february 2014network ss14
Key Pieces
  • Asos Slim Fit Double Breasted Blazer In Washed CottonAsos Slim Fit Double Breasted Blazer In Washed Cotton
  • Topman Blue Skinny Three Piece SuitTopman Blue Skinny Three Piece Suit
  • Topman Mid Blue Skinny Fit SuitTopman Mid Blue Skinny Fit Suit
  • United Colors Of Benetton Suit Jacket In Slim FitUnited Colors Of Benetton Suit Jacket In Slim Fit
  • Reiss Suit Jacket In Regular FitReiss Suit Jacket In Regular Fit
  • Next Pale Blue Cotton Skinny Fit Suit: JacketNext Pale Blue Cotton Skinny Fit Suit: Jacket
  • River Island Light Blue Double Breasted BlazerRiver Island Light Blue Double Breasted Blazer
  • River Island Bright Blue Vito BlazerRiver Island Bright Blue Vito Blazer
  • Reiss Garth T Tailored Formal Trousers BlueReiss Garth T Tailored Formal Trousers Blue
  • Incotex Slim-fit Cotton TrousersIncotex Slim-fit Cotton Trousers
  • He By Mango Slim-fit Check Linen ChinosHe By Mango Slim-fit Check Linen Chinos
  • He By Mango Double-breasted Jersey BlazerHe By Mango Double-breasted Jersey Blazer
Forget Your Socks This Summer

Going sockless with your suit or separates was another major trend at this summer’s event, especially when combined with a slip-on shoe of some variety.

It’s an easy look to pull off and often more comfortable than wearing socks during the warmer months – just remember to have some talcum powder ready for your feet before putting the shoes on, and some odour-eater ready after you take them off.

And if you prefer to wear socks but want the sockless aesthetic, just invest in some loafer liners. Although these are supposed to be ‘invisible’, try to purchase them in the same colours as the shoes you plan to wear, just in case they peek out.

Nam for Grazia.it Pitti Uomo 86 Street StyleNam for Grazia.it

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Gioconda Rafanelli & August Kaciuruba for buro247.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleGioconda Rafanelli & August Kaciuruba for buro247.com

Youngjun Koo for Hypebeast - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleYoungjun Koo for Hypebeast.com

Key Pieces
  • Falke Step Invisible Cotton-blend SocksFalke Step Invisible Cotton-blend Socks
  • River Island Black Invisible Trainer Socks PackRiver Island Black Invisible Trainer Socks Pack
  • Topman Grey Textured Invisible SocksTopman Grey Textured Invisible Socks
  • Pringle 3 Pack Invisible SocksPringle 3 Pack Invisible Socks
  • Imperial Leather Talcum Powder Original 300gImperial Leather Talcum Powder Original 300g
  • Odoreaters Antiperspirant Deodorant Foot & Shoe Spray – 150mlOdoreaters Antiperspirant Deodorant Foot & Shoe Spray - 150ml
A Dressier Polo

Here at FashionBeans, we’re huge fans of dressing down a suit for casual wear, and Pitti is a hot bed for ideas on how to do this every year.

One of the pillars of this smart-casual approach to suiting this season was a dressier form of polo shirt. Made from more luxurious fabrics such as cashmere or linen-blends, they came in a slimmer fit and often featured a longer placket.

If you think about it, this way of wearing a suit is a real no-brainer. You already have 75 per cent of your look sorted, so just pick up a polo and some casual kicks and you’re off. Easy.

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Smart Polo Shirt Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

jigsaw ss14calibre ss14tommy hilfiger tailored ss14digel ss14uniforms of the dedicated ss14ted baker ss13
Key Pieces
  • He By Mango Button-down Collar Polo ShirtHe By Mango Button-down Collar Polo Shirt
  • Polo Ralph Lauren Long Sleeve Knitted PoloPolo Ralph Lauren Long Sleeve Knitted Polo
  • He By Mango Cotton Pique Polo ShirtHe By Mango Cotton Pique Polo Shirt
  • Dolce & Gabbana Cotton-pique Polo ShirtDolce & Gabbana Cotton-pique Polo Shirt
  • Reiss Platinum Short Sleeve Knit Polo BlueReiss Platinum Short Sleeve Knit Polo Blue
  • Doriani Long-sleeved Suede-trimmed Cashmere Polo ShirtDoriani Long-sleeved Suede-trimmed Cashmere Polo Shirt
  • Reiss Larry Patterned Polo Shirt NavyReiss Larry Patterned Polo Shirt Navy
  • Etro Contrast-trim Cotton-pique Polo ShirtEtro Contrast-trim Cotton-pique Polo Shirt
  • Gucci Cotton Linen And Silk-blend Pique Polo ShirtGucci Cotton Linen And Silk-blend Pique Polo Shirt
Unexpected Checks

Traditionally the reserve of sports coats, Glen Plaid checks, houndstooth and plaids are starting to make their way onto everything from trousers and waistcoats to ties and trainers.

Accents such as checked ties, pocket squares and lightweight scarves offer an easy way of getting in on this trend without having to alter your current personal style. However, for those looking to make more of a statement, why not try a pair of muted plaid trousers? Anchor with a neutral jacket and crisp white shirt to let them do all the talking.

Alternatively, consider slotting a checked waistcoat (in a complementary brown palette) in-between your classic navy/grey suits to add a patterned punch to your formal looks this season.

Stefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleStefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com

Stefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleStefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com

Stefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleStefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com

Marc Richardson for HighSnobiety - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleMarc Richardson for HighSnobiety.com

Key Pieces
  • Topman Houndstooth Pocket SquareTopman Houndstooth Pocket Square
  • He By Mango Check Cotton ScarfHe By Mango Check Cotton Scarf
  • He By Mango Check Wool-blend TieHe By Mango Check Wool-blend Tie
  • Bottega Veneta Woven Tartan Tie 204813Bottega Veneta Woven Tartan Tie 204813
  • Selected Adam Checked TieSelected Adam Checked Tie
  • He By Mango Check Cotton ScarfHe By Mango Check Cotton Scarf
  • Turnbull & Asser Check-print Silk Pocket SquareTurnbull & Asser Check-print Silk Pocket Square
  • He By Mango Slim-fit Check Linen ChinosHe By Mango Slim-fit Check Linen Chinos
  • Topman Selected Homme Check TrousersTopman Selected Homme Check Trousers
Printed Shirts

Coming in every pattern and colour palette imaginable, printed shirts were a real highlight of Pitti Uomo this season, particularly on trend floral versions.

Regardless of how bold you go with this type of dress shirt, simply pair it with a neutral suit in navy, grey or khaki and skip the tie for a smart-casual look to kill. Perfect for summer weddings.

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Stefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleStefano Carloni for NSSMAG.com

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Things Are Looking Up

Or rather, things are starting to get higher with the shift to a more natural trouser line. No more low rise on everything you buy, which only flatters the skinniest, most model-like of human beings.

Tailoring is starting to return to traditional, fuller cuts with trousers that actually hang from your waist line. The benefits of this, aside from hiding your little muffin top, is that you can avoid the triangle of shirt that shows between your jacket and trousers when wearing low rise trousers while adding an old school, masculine feel to your formal looks this summer.

Nam for Grazia.it Pitti Uomo 86 Street StyleNam for Grazia.it

Tommy Ton for GQ.com - Pitti Uomo 86 Men's Street StyleTommy Ton for GQ.com

Nam for Grazia.it Pitti Uomo 86 Street StyleNam for Grazia.it

Nam for Grazia.it Pitti Uomo 86 Street StyleNam for Grazia.it

Final Word

As always, Pitti Uomo proved once again why it is considered perhaps THE most influential event on the menswear calendar. Forget the reaction-provoking looks and garments paraded down the runways at the various global fashion weeks, the gents on the streets at Pitti show how to take key trends and adapt them for everyday scenarios.

But why not tell us what you think? Were there any other trends not mentioned that you really liked? What do you think about the ones highlighted?

Let us know in the comments section below…

Matt Allinson