NYFW’s Biggest Trends

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is one of the most important dates on the style calendar. With the AW14 event recently taking place between 6th – 13th February, some of the industry’s greatest designers led the procession of bloggers, models and buyers in the Big Apple despite sub-zero temperatures and six inches of snow (just goes to show how much better they handle it over the pond).

For one reason or another, my front row tickets must’ve got lost in the post and I was unable to grace NYFW with my presence. As I sat in my pants on my sofa watching show after show with a bag of Wotsits and a pack of chocolate digestives, I couldn’t have wished to be anywhere else (not bitter at all, not one bit).

This season, FashionBeans proudly presents a rundown of the nine biggest and best men’s trends from NYFW AW14. Keep your eyes peeled: menswear is becoming more and more of a focus, and going forward there are plenty of new innovations you can begin to integrate into your wardrobe.

So from New York to South London via a very dodgy laptop, here are some of the key pieces and looks that are set to take off at the end of the year; after all, planning ahead is always a strong sartorial move…

1. Utilitarian

Think 1940s car mechanic meets modern day soldier and you’re almost there. The Beyond Closet exhibition in particular was a strong proponent of the utilitarian trend, with belted jackets, multiple chest pockets and thick, heavy materials featuring within the majority of looks.

After the industry’s recent obsession with sports luxe and digital prints, it makes a refreshing change to see traditional fabrics and premium wool construction take centre stage. Heritage is most definitely back on the agenda (classicists, sigh a breath of sartorial relief):

NYFW Men's Trends - Utilitarian Outerwear

APCpublic schooldsquared2Calvin KLEINbilly reidbeyond closet
Current Key Pieces
  • Asos Peacoat With Military Detail In NavyAsos Peacoat With Military Detail In Navy
  • River Island Grey Military CoatRiver Island Grey Military Coat
  • Allsaints Walsall ParkaAllsaints Walsall Parka
  • Military Crombie CoatMilitary Crombie Coat
  • Peter Werth 4 Pocket Military JacketPeter Werth 4 Pocket Military Jacket
  • Unconditional Coat MilitaryUnconditional Coat Military
2. Checks/Tartan

Seen at the Billy Reid show and Timo Weiland exhibition, tartan is another step in a more traditional direction.

Whether in muted tones of navy and maroon, given a neutral gradient effect or updated with contrasting pinks and black, tartan is no longer the sole reserve of your nan’s winter blanket.

The options are endless: a statement can be made with a full tartan overcoat, or you can take a more subtle approach via accents and detailing. Kudos Scotland, you’ve taken New York Fashion Week by storm:

NYFW Men's Trends - Tartan and Checks

Billy ReidBilly Reidmichael bastiandknyovadia & sonstimo weiland
Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Tartan Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

topman suitstopman suitsunknownoffice shoes aw12j crew aw13lbm 1911 aw13gant rugger holiday 2011gant rugger pre spring 2014ami ss14
Current Key Pieces
  • River Island Black Tartan Long Sleeve ShirtRiver Island Black Tartan Long Sleeve Shirt
  • Topman Selected Homme Check BlazerTopman Selected Homme Check Blazer
  • Neighborhood Plaid Wool Bomber JacketNeighborhood Plaid Wool Bomber Jacket
  • Topman Vito Toms Check BlazerTopman Vito Toms Check Blazer
  • United Colors Of Benetton Trouser In TartanUnited Colors Of Benetton Trouser In Tartan
  • Glen Lossie Tartan Lambswool ScarfGlen Lossie Tartan Lambswool Scarf
3. Soft Prep

The soft prep trend was a particular highlight of NYFW: the usual Ivy League silhouette was diluted with softer fabrics, looser shapes and a more relaxed finish.

As the Rag & Bone and Gant Rugger showcases approached on the calendar, the reinvention of typical American prep was facilitated through bright colours and plunging lapels.

Wool, quilted fabrics and simple tees – the valedictorian look requires less precision and rigidity this winter:

NYFW Men's Trends - Soft Prep

j crewrag and bonerag and bone
4. Oversized Jackets

A trend that the experimentalists will enjoy, oversized jackets were spotted at Opening Ceremony, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Duckie Brown.

Presented in silk, nylon and synthetic fabrics, a top-heavy silhouette distorts the frame and therefore is a good choice for the taller (read: lanky) gents in our midst.

Although show season often presents the more avant-garde side of the style spectrum, long length overcoats and voluminous bomber jackets is how the high street will likely translate this trend:

NYFW Men's Trends - Oversized Outerwear

opening ceemonyopening ceemonyduckie brownduckie brownmarc by marc jacobsmarc by marc jacobs
5. Navy

Seen everywhere – from Todd Snyder and Jack Spade to J.Crew – navy was undoubtedly the key colour of NYFW.

Masculine, simple and classic, navy tailoring was often combined with accessories in the same hue for a contrast of casual and formal wear.

As proven in our ‘All Navy Everything Look’ article, muted colours needn’t be boring. We’re forever boasting about the benefits of navy pieces and no matter what the season, you can pack a bold yet understated punch. Ideal:

NYFW AW14 Men's Trends - Navy

Jack SpadeJack SpadeTodd SnyderTodd SnyderJ.CrewJ.Crew
Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Tonal, All Navy Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

reiss aw12debenhams hammond and co ss14he by mango ss14drykorn aw13reiss ss14burton aw13digel aw13massimo dutti september 2013lbm 1911 ss12
Current Key Pieces
  • Asos Smart Shirt In Long Sleeve With Button Down CollarAsos Smart Shirt In Long Sleeve With Button Down Collar
  • Reiss Molton Button Shawl Collar Cardigan NavyReiss Molton Button Shawl Collar Cardigan Navy
  • He By Mango Straight-fit Cotton ChinosHe By Mango Straight-fit Cotton Chinos
  • Reiss Airstream Two Button Classic Blazer NavyReiss Airstream Two Button Classic Blazer Navy
  • John Smedley Lyndhurst Sea Island Cotton SweaterJohn Smedley Lyndhurst Sea Island Cotton Sweater
  • He By Mango Contrast Sole Suede LoafersHe By Mango Contrast Sole Suede Loafers
6. Over-Accessorising

I know what you’re thinking: since when has over-accessorising been a good thing?

Well, it’s a difficult trend to pull off, but the Michael Bastian AW14 show proved that it can be done successfully. One look sported a scarf, pocket square, key chain, lapel pin and spectacles yet was given an effortless spin by a distinct lack of sharpness.

Over-accessorising can work if you don’t give too much thought to an ensemble. However, exercise great caution:

NYFW AW14 Men's Trends - Accessorising at Michael Bastian

Michael BastianMichael BastianMichael Bastian
Current Key Pieces
  • Maison Martin Margiela 11 Men’s Silver Ring NecklaceMaison Martin Margiela 11 Men’s Silver Ring Necklace
  • Topman Black And Grey Check BracesTopman Black And Grey Check Braces
  • Reiss Abyss Chain Print Silk Pocket Square OrangeReiss Abyss Chain Print Silk Pocket Square Orange
  • Burton Curb Chain Clip Wallet ChainBurton Curb Chain Clip Wallet Chain
  • River Island Dark Red Flower Lapel PinRiver Island Dark Red Flower Lapel Pin
  • Lanvin Engraved Metal Tie ClipLanvin Engraved Metal Tie Clip
  • River Island Gold Tone Chained Collar TipsRiver Island Gold Tone Chained Collar Tips
  • Reclaimed Vintage Mechanical Pocket WatchReclaimed Vintage Mechanical Pocket Watch
  • He By Mango Printed Wool ScarfHe By Mango Printed Wool Scarf
7. Contrast Panelling

Seen at everyone’s favourite sportswear label, DKNY, contrast panelling was applied to outerwear in bold blocks of print and colour.

Whether a mixture of plain fabric and tartan or obtuse geometrics on the front of knitwear, contrast panelling allows you to pull off fashion forward looks without stepping too far out of your comfort zone.

Experiment with shape and colour to your heart’s content this AW14 – I personally think it’s going to be the biggest trend thus far:

NYFW AW14 Men's Trends - Contrast Panelling

Current Key Pieces
  • J.crew Contrast-sleeve Cotton-jersey Henley T-shirtJ.crew Contrast-sleeve Cotton-jersey Henley T-shirt
  • River Island Black Colour Block Textured JumperRiver Island Black Colour Block Textured Jumper
  • Topman Villain Colour Block Jumper Topman Villain Colour Block Jumper
  • Reiss Jumper With Contrast SleevesReiss Jumper With Contrast Sleeves
  • New Look Blue Colour Block Fisherman JacketNew Look Blue Colour Block Fisherman Jacket
  • Maison Martin Margiela Reversible Bomber JacketMaison Martin Margiela Reversible Bomber Jacket
8. Overcoats

As you have probably gathered by now, the stand-out piece of NYFW was the humble overcoat.

Given a tailored finish with premium fabrics and statement prints, this traditional silhouette was seen at almost every show and exhibition.

The more formal dressers will be eyeing this trend with glee while the other side can team an overcoat with a plain t-shirt, jeans and trainers. Finally, something we can all enjoy:

NYFW AW14 Men's Trends - Overcoats

acne studiosbilly reidcalvin kleinshipley & halmosmark mcnairy new amsterdampatrik ervellovadia & sonsopening ceremonypublic school
Lookbook Inspiration

Men's Overcoats Outfit Inspiration Lookbook

the kooples aw13suitsupply aw13zara man editons 2013reiss aw12he by mango november 2012h&m aw12j lindeberg aw12reiss aw13Boglioli aw12
Current Key Pieces
  • Allsaints District CoatAllsaints District Coat
  • Asos Double Breasted Wool Overcoat In Black With Velvet CollarAsos Double Breasted Wool Overcoat In Black With Velvet Collar
  • Peter Werth Overcoat Made In EnglandPeter Werth Overcoat Made In England
  • Topman Selected Homme Trench CoatTopman Selected Homme Trench Coat
  • Topman Blue Marl Herringbone Smart CoatTopman Blue Marl Herringbone Smart Coat
  • Topman Navy Wool Smart CoatTopman Navy Wool Smart Coat
9. Granddad Knits

You remember your old granddad’s weird print knitwear, right? Well, DKNY and J.Crew were two big proponents of the granddad knit for AW14.

Geometric, vintage-inspired jumpers were given a lambswool update for a 1970s-style statement. Time to get in those charity shops, fellas:

NYFW AW14 Men's Trends - Granddad Knits

j crewj crewdkny
Current Key Pieces
  • He By Mango Rhombus Cotton SweaterHe By Mango Rhombus Cotton Sweater
  • Gant Rugger Two Tone JumperGant Rugger Two Tone Jumper
  • He By Mango Liberty Print SweaterHe By Mango Liberty Print Sweater
  • River Island Ecru Fair Isle Stripe Crew Neck JumperRiver Island Ecru Fair Isle Stripe Crew Neck Jumper
  • Reiss Taylor Contrast Stitch Jumper NavyReiss Taylor Contrast Stitch Jumper Navy
  • Ps By Paul Smith Houndstooth Check Cotton SweaterPs By Paul Smith Houndstooth Check Cotton Sweater
Final Word

So there you have it, the most prolific trends from NYFW AW14.

At FashionBeans, we understand the importance of wardrobe assimilation: taking show trends and adapting them to your own style. Fashion weeks often present the boldest form of these trends for buyers and retailers to really grasp with both hands – a subtle dilution of each is much more likely to find its way into your wardrobe come the end of the year.

So, what did you think of NYFW AW14? Any favourite trends? Anything you’d add?

Let us know in the comments section…