LC:M Round-Up: Day 3 And 4
Sunday seemed to suggest a more relaxed frame of mind for those attending London Collections: Men (LC:M). The triple-whammy line-up of Baartmans & Siegel, Huntergather and Margaret Howell – all producing beautifully made, simple classics with a subtle modern twist – certainly achieved that.
Baartmans went all-out for luxury casual wear, with zip-up tops complementing their signature tailored joggers and warming parkas finishing the look. The design duo’s use of stripes and navy checks (another LC:M trend) was a particular win – as was getting GQ Editor-In-Chief Dylan Jones out for a 9am Sunday show:
Huntergather gave us a concise yet wide-ranging collection, which covered every aspect of the early 1970s – from camel coats to more risqué patterned lamé suiting. The era is looking to be a big inspiration across the London runways already:
Margaret Howell’s light-filled Wigmore Street store was, as ever, the location for her LC:M presentation.
Howell’s signature clean and minimal aesthetic came through clearly via a collection of pieces that would slot easily into any man’s wardrobe, punctuated with colourful rib-knit scarves and hand knitted sweaters that gave a tentative nod to the 1990s revival:
Joseph also experimented with knits in a moody presentation that saw their Brook Street store carpeted with black sand.
Inspired by the artwork of painter Sean Scully, the brand’s patchwork Fair Isle knits showed that, away from shearling, unique wool techniques are going to be big news for AW15:
On the more tailored side of things, Kilgour’s Carlo Brandelli went all out for razor-sharp suiting, with slashes and lapels “that could cut paper”, characterising some of the most contemporary suiting on Savile Row:
Mr Porter’s collaboration with forthcoming film Kingsman: The Secret Service, hosted at the venerable house of Huntsman on Savile Row, was an exercise in wardrobe idolatry.
Collaborations and outfits from the characters’ wardrobes, developed with Mr Porter partners, were displayed immaculately in the walnut-lined tailor’s rooms:
Monday’s final morning was dominated by LC:M’s wunderkind, Craig Green. While being heralded as London’s next important designer, he’s one that you either get, or you don’t.
Inspired by restriction and freedom, this collection – which saw tightened tops featuring scar tissue stitching and oversized neoprene-backed coats with trailing strands and straps (recalling classic 1990s influences) – will do nothing to change your mind.
However, it did show that Green is a designer who will go far by investigating his own aesthetic, and much like last season, had the audience in the palm of his hand:
London’s subversive tailors E.Tautz and Casely-Hayford also made a big impression this season.
E.Tautz’ combination of monochrome plaids, oversized raglan sleeve overcoats and chunky roll neck jumpers all riffed on the classic country gentleman’s wardrobe, which was brought bang up to date through the use of anthracite colours:
Casely-Hayford’s riot of colourful contrast-panel stripes, bold patterns and complex knitwear techniques was seriously playful, and showed that even in a more conservative season like autumn/winter, it’s doesn’t have to be all dark and moody tones:
Rounding off this season’s LC:M was Tiger of Sweden. They’re not a British brand per se, but a multi-polygonal take on tailoring channelled the late 1970s post-industrial North of England, and resulted in the sort of thing that London menswear does best – a mix of tailoring and sportswear-inspired styles: