The British TV industry’s glamour night proved that even though male dress codes seem easy, wearing the tuxedo well is a challenge. It was one that some men rose to, while others proved why guys are lucky they don’t have the huge array of dressing options that women do. Even if you’re not a regular on the red carpet, these are the lessons to learn.
Two Breasts Are Better Than One
If you’re no stranger to the bench press, tailoring can make you look top heavy. Counterintuitively, a double-breasted tuxedo can create a subtler torso shape if – as Elba proves – you opt for a longer hem, which lengthens your body. We’ll leave you to ponder his choice of Tom Ford, who also makes suits for a certain MI6 agent. (Related: How to wear the double-breasted jacket this summer)
Accessories Make The Man
As well as all those ‘best actor of his generation’ accolades, Mark Rylance has made the pork pie hat his own. Anything up top is always tough to pull off, but sticking to the same shade as your tux makes it look integral, not an afterthought. We’d rather his tailor had seen to those sleeves, mind. But it’s amazing how accessorising with an award makes people forget about fit.
Feeling Blue
When everyone else is in monochrome, make like Justin Timberlake and stand a shade apart. Midnight blue photographs better than black and is a punchy backdrop for more advanced style moves – like a statement-making peak lapel. The best way to bring sexy back.
Back Yourself In Black
The key to making all-black-errthing pop is creating contrast. Monotone looks are flat; monochrome looks that mix shades have hidden depths. For Kunal Nayaar, texture is key; those rich velvet lapels and bow tie, along with the shimmer of his patent shoes, contrast with his matt tuxedo.
Know The Difference Between Fitted & Skintight
Perhaps Mark Wright’s not bought a new suit since discovering protein shakes. But that wrinkling around his biceps and on his shoulder – and the puckering out from the single-button fastening – are signs that he needs to size up. In fact, it seems proportion is something Wright can’t quite get the hang of; that skinny tie is swallowed by his mid-chest lapels. Get some balance, please.
If You Swerve The Dress Code, You Need To Nail The Details
If black tie’s an irregular affair, then fair play if you don’t have a tuxedo in your wardrobe. But if you’re going to do the black suit thing instead, you can’t afford missteps. Charlie Brooker falls foul of tailoring 101: fastening the bottom button. The tie knot is also veering football pundit – slimmer neckwear would be more in step with the thin lapel and body-hugging fit.
