• Men's Style

10 Style Lessons From Pitti Uomo 91

Sure, Pitti Uomo might be famed for its peacocks (definition: Panama-hatted, fluoro-suited show-offs), but there are other gents roosting in the aviary that are just as stylish. And better yet, they don’t look like Big Bird on Savile Row. Here are 10 of the best-dressed guys we snapped over the four-day menswear event in Florence, and the lessons you can learn from them.

Boyz N The Hood

This might be the season you regret throwing all your teen hoodies out. The once mosh-pit essential has undergone a significant make-under, allowing it to sit just as easily with a pair of jeans and a bomber jacket as it does a loosely cut blazer and relaxed-leg trousers.

Jean Therapy

Anyone who’s ever wondered how to dress up denim should head to Florence. Here, an indigo wash makes an easy companion to navy tailoring, with structured pieces elsewhere passing off blue collar threads as business-appropriate.

White Wash

Unless you’re a rockstar, white legwear is a niche move; but not necessarily a bad one. Here, the notoriously difficult piece is balanced out by classic staples elsewhere, letting the pale jean pop without peddling Razorlight.

Roll Call

A suit can do wonderful things for a man, but it can also stifle him. To save being suffocated by a tie and all the trimmings, follow this example and opt for a roll neck instead. Not only will your look tap seventies sprezzatura, you can dress down without veering off dress code.

Full Camo Jacket

Camouflage is more front row than front line these days. In recent seasons the print has evolved further, transitioning from streetwear pieces to outerwear and even tailoring. By teaming it with classic navy trousers, the jacket here is both dressed up and toned down, with minimal pieces elsewhere anchoring the look.

Suede Runner

Providing the heavens don’t remain permanently open until May (which they probably will), suede is one of the most wearable winter fabrics out there. A choice jacket can add depth and texture that will complement almost anything in your wardrobe – including tricky white trousers and a cleverly-deployed pocket square.

Sherpa Shetty

One man’s Nepalese sheep herder chic is another man’s Pitti power move; especially when you offset it with a grey base layer and classic blue jeans. Fleece, as one of winter’s warmer fabrics, doesn’t come cheap. But the investment will pay dividends in style points.

Sky High

Shearling is an aviation classic that has dropped from the skies to deploy itself in our wardrobes, and it’s easy to see why we can’t get enough. The tactile fabric can add a traditional slant to even the riskiest of trends – including the wide-leg trouser.

Best in Class

There’s a reason some pieces are regarded as classic. The suit has long been the cornerstone of a man’s wardrobe, and it’s the small details that make a difference, which in this case means sharp lapels, oxblood monk-straps and a contrast waistcoat. Bravo Johannes Huebl, bravo.

In The Navy

Not to be confused with double denim, this all-navy look is no Canadian tuxedo. Up top, a sharp worker jacket brings structure to other workwear references including a beanie and tapered trousers – all united by a muted palette.

Murray Clark