FashionBeans: Men's Fashion & Men's Style Guide
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    geo

    Trend Setter
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    104
    Offline

    The No Break Suit Trouser

    Can many people achieve this realistically?

    Yes, I know you can get the trousers altered and pinned beforehand to see how they will look, but when mine come back, they sometimes don't seem quite right - although they are short enough, they seem too wide.

    Am I right in thinking if getting the trousers hemmed to achieve a no break, they also need to be narrowed/tapered so that they don't flap?

    For example, although in the 2 pictures below, the guys have achieved a no break, they seem in my opinion, that bit too short/too wide. Do you agree If they were slightly longer and narrower, they would look better - but would there still be a no break?



    And in the following, the person nearest the camera has a no break but seem far too short, whilst the 2 guys behind in dark trousers still have a no break look but the silhouette looks better - presumably they would be hemmed slightly longer/narrower?



    This may seem very picky and a fine detail, but it seems in my mind that when dealing with no break, there is a fine line between looking exceptional, and looking like they are too short, and likewise with slimness, there is the line between looking like they are made to measure, and too skinny.

  2. #2
    William Colman's Avatar

    FashionBeans Staff
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brighton
    Posts
    647
    Offline
    Wearing cropped suit/formal trousers is a big statement;you are going against one of the main rules of tailoring (in the traditional sense) and you have specifically set out to produce a certain look. Get it wrong and it will not work (as you have already pointed out). The issue with formal trousers is that they aren't usually as slim cut as perhaps our casual trousers/jeans are so whilst you might be able to change the length, the width will remain the same, the only way to get around this is to taper the legs; an alteration that I think is fundamental to any such look.

    You wouldn't necessarily have to have the trousers tapered a lot, just enough to have the edge taken off the width. Because you don't have the support of the shoe there will always be an element of flapping and you won't ever really get rid of it without making drastic changes to the width of the trouser. The pressed crease in the trouser will also mean that they will always flap to some extent.

    In my opinion the two chaps at the top do need to taper their trousers, only from the knee down, but it would help to make the whole shape more streamlined and fitted. The guys at the back in the second picture have got it spot on, the legs are tapered and cropped nicely, that gives you a nice versatile level to work with.

    However, the guy at the front is a more complex matter. The level to which he has cropped his trousers works much better when the suit is worn without socks, I know this from personal experience as I have had a pair of grey suit trousers cropped to very much the same level and I wear them without socks and with my double monk straps. They are part of a double breasted suit so I am purposely making a statement with the whole thing, I wouldn't advocate such a look in a work setting though as you are better off sticking to the normal rules.

    To deal with the flapping on my trousers I had them tapered. They were slim fit trousers to begin with but because I have big calves and my legs bow inwards a tiny bit I could only taper them from mid calf down (this didn't matter as the rest of the leg was fine.) this removed the excess width though so now they sit very nicely at around the ball of my ankle.

    Essentially what I am saying is that if you have your trousers cropped, get them tapered, it doesn't have to be all the way down it could be from the knee or calf depending on how they fit all round. How high you crop them will depend entirely on the situation and how you want to wear them.

    Does this help at all? I feel like I've not made much sense and that this is a very long reply.

  3. #3
    geo

    Trend Setter
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    104
    Offline
    Thanks, that's very helpful. I know it depends on height/shoes/personal preference but what sort of width are your suit trousres at the hem?

    I know getting them pinned and actually looking is the best thing, but a point of reference/example might be useful.

  4. #4
    William Colman's Avatar

    FashionBeans Staff
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brighton
    Posts
    647
    Offline
    mine are about 7inches across

  5. #5
    geo

    Trend Setter
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    104
    Offline
    Ok, and what chest size are you..just to put that into context of overall build.
    I'm fairly small build with 36 chest, so think I can afford (maybe even need to) go slimmer on the trousers than a larger man.

  6. #6
    William Colman's Avatar

    FashionBeans Staff
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brighton
    Posts
    647
    Offline
    I'm a 36 - 37 inch chest, You could definitely go slimmer, I would have liked to but my calves are too big to taper them any more, they are completely tight around them now, even when standing up. If you are quite slender then a tighter hem would probably look better.

  7. #7
    geo

    Trend Setter
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    104
    Offline
    Ok, I've got a supposedly slim fit suit from M&S that I'm going to get altered - the trousers are far too wide/excess material, not just in the hem which is a little over 8 inches across but in most of the leg of the trouser. Length is ok though.

    I guess I can ask for them to be slimmed most of the way down, if it is not just the bottom half which needs adjusting?

    On a budget, what would you say should be altered most after the trousers? The jacket is fine but would probably benefit from a few adjustments - such as slight shortening of jacket sleeves/increasing supression and tightness at waist slightly.

    I don't want to get the trousers altered and then have them look out of place with the jacket - I imagine I need to get both altered at the same time.

  8. #8
    William Colman's Avatar

    FashionBeans Staff
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brighton
    Posts
    647
    Offline
    If the trousers have extra material all the way down then get the whole lot tapered; you only need do it from the knee etc if the top of the leg is fine. Be careful that you don't make the top of the leg too tight though as they will become uncomfortable to sit down in.

    If you feel like the jacket could do with some adjustments then I would say go for the waist first, sleeves aren't quite as important as making the whole silhouette look right and it won't hurt to make the whole lot look slimmer, get it all pinned at the same time, then you have a better idea of how it will look.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts