How Do You Like The Cut Of Your Blazers?

[Nath6644]

Hi there, I'm popping to the tailors tomorrow. Firstly, I need to pick up my corduroy blazer that is being taken in (stupid Topman sizes!) but I'm also going to drop off a navy double-breasted blazer I picked up from H and M a couple of months ago.

The blazer is lovely, especially for the price (£34!??) but a bit "boxy" for my liking, especially seem as I'd quite like to wear it in a casual "short-suit" look this summer, with chino shorts. It also looks ridiculous unbuttoned, which I know is true of most double-breasted. However, as much as I'm aware that unbuttoning one standing up is a faux-pas, I'd find it comforting to know that I could unbutton it without looking like I'm wearing batman's cape.

So my question is, how streamlined against your bodies do you like your blazers/sportcoats/suitjackets? Should it literally follow the line of your body all the way down? With basically no room?

Secondly, wear do you like the sleeves of your blazers to fall on your wrists?

Thanks in advance gents!

[William Colman]

You're a bit stuck with Double Breasted, they should ALWAYS be worn buttoned up, there is simply too much material to justify wearing them undone, taking a jacket in won't make any difference to the way it sits. DB is also supposed to be a little bit more boxy, the shape is more classic so it will never have exactly the same lines as a single breasted jacket, that said, there is no reason for it not to be taken in to create a slimmer line, I'm going to be pinning my DB jacket at work this weekend.

I would follow the classic rules of tailoring:

- you should have around 3/4 to an inch of space in the front of the jacket.

- the hem should sit no higher than the bottom of your zip or your actual bottom.

- the shoulders should have about half an inch of space on either side (preferably less, but if you were to lift them up from the edge, it should crease slightly).

- Your sleeves shouldn't go any further than the base of your thumb although you can lift them higher depending on how much shirt cuff you want to show.

A jacket that is too tight is almost as bad as a jacket that is too big. have things taken in but don't go too mad, just remove a bit of the excess material to get the lines slightly closer to your body. This also leaves room for an extra layer or any surreptitious weight gain. It is of course up to you how you want your jacket to look but it is always worth keeping in mind some general rules.

not all jackets are the same either, they might have more canvas, more padding, be cut differently or be made of different material. This all affects the way they will fit.

[Nath6644]

Snapshot_20120520_11.jpg picture by nath6644 - Photobucket

Here's the blazer as it is. Does it need any modifications as it is? Bearing in mind it was only about 30 quid.

[Nath6644]

p.s. I was a bit worried about the length but on reflection its no different to this beauty from Mr Porter:

Band of Outsiders*Double-Breasted Linen-Blend Blazer*|*MR PORTER

[William Colman]

It looks good at the moment, its always worth remembering that DB jackets will always be a bit boxy, but that is all part of the look. I reckon you could get it taken in if you wanted to, just to accentuate the lines. I had mine pinned Friday and it looks a better, there is a bit more of a pinch in at the waist to slim it down.

I don't think cost should really factor into it, if you like the blazer get it altered so it looks the best it possibly can. Its still cheaper a lot of other things. Once I get my blazer back I'll get a photo of it.

[Nath6644]

It looks good at the moment, its always worth remembering that DB jackets will always be a bit boxy, but that is all part of the look. I reckon you could get it taken in if you wanted to, just to accentuate the lines. I had mine pinned Friday and it looks a better, there is a bit more of a pinch in at the waist to slim it down.

I don't think cost should really factor into it, if you like the blazer get it altered so it looks the best it possibly can. Its still cheaper a lot of other things. Once I get my blazer back I'll get a photo of it.

Thanks Will, on reflection I probably will get it taken in. When I layer up it looks fine but if I want to wear it in summer, I might want it to have a silouette with slightly more shape around the waist.

Best thing to do would be to take it to my tailor and ask his opinion. He's very honest and will tell me if he thinks it's a good idea.

And thanks I'm keen to see the cut of yours.