Nicomede Talavera SS14
London-based emerging menswear designer Nicomede Talavera premieres his first full collection since graduating from Central Saint Martins. The spring/summer 2014 offering marks the designer’s third collaboration with luggage specialist EASTPAK.
Inspired by the colour-block work of artist Ellsworth Kelly, the collection takes the form of abstract prints, classic tailoring and oversized tops. Speaking of his SS14 muse, Talavera told Style Salvage “I developed my previous research of Ellsworth Kelly whilst extracting fresh elements and… became fascinated by the business men of Canary Wharf, seeing them on the tube in their pinstripe suits, trainers and a backpack. I wanted to take the tailoring and sportswear influences of the modern man and it all worked back to Kelly and his own fascination with everyday landscape. I too began to see these squares.”
The sartorial awkwardness expected of crisp office pieces meeting gym wear is deftly avoided by Talavera’s fresh craftsmanship. Chiffon fabrics and cut and paste techniques are used by the designer to create a striking blend of materials and textures – we’re talking contrast sleeves, stray strips of colour and minimalist yet impactful detailing.
Square pockets and parallel zips enunciate the boxy qualities of certain silhouettes whilst pinstripes and typical office wear fabrics are given a new lease of life via leather appliqué and casual layering over marble-effect fabrics.
However, where the collection really comes into its own is through the luxurious reinterpretation of common fabrics and styles. Architectural structuring takes centre stage and helps give the collection its high fashion edge, with drastic silhouettes being composed of exaggerated proportions.
Meanwhile, heavy layering of cuts and fabrics redefine the boundaries of the male form. The result is a youthful revitalisation of commuter chic in the everyday landscape as seen through the creative lens of a suitably artistic designer.
You can find out more about the designer’s work at NicomedeTalavera.com.