Austria’s most successful fashion export, Raimund Berthold, is continuing his success with a spring/summer 2014 menswear collection. The line from the Central Saint Martins graduate originally showed as part of London Collections: MEN last year.
After completing his MA in 2005, Berthold established himself working for some of the leading fashion houses including Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. In 2009 the designer set up his own self-titled label.
Berthold’s style is characterised by a minimalist choice of colour, oversized free-flowing cuts and a contrast between natural and synthetic fabrics. The brand’s SS14 collection embodies these elements in an innovative yet utilitarian collection.
Oversized pieces are central to the label’s aesthetic and a visual centrepiece of the outfits. Slim-fitting items are occasionally featured, often used to emphasise the proportions of the looser cuts. This innovative use of fit gives coats, trousers and tailoring a flowing, comfortable look that hints at a move away from the skinny silhouette.
The sparse use of colour is another key element of the range. The majority of pieces are black or white, occasionally broken up with a hint of grey or with what appears to be a space-inspired print.
Minimalism is also on show in the construction of some pieces: a grey suit takes the less is more approach to the extreme, constructed without buttons or lapels.
When questioned about his design process, Berthold said: “What I do is not about completely reinventing menswear.”