• Men's Watches

5 Watch ‘Rules’ You Should Ignore

Gold And Silver Should Never Mix

In generations gone by, when you were considered gaudy if you wore your hat askance, it’s understandable that matching your metals was seen as a touch flash. But we now live in a world where Jeremy Scott puts wings on gold trainers (and people actually wear them), so some contrast on your wrist shouldn’t get high society a-flap.

Switzerland has jumped on board, most notably Audemars Piguet, one of Geneva’s most storied watchmakers. Where it leads, you may as well follow. But before you unleash your inner Mr. T, know that two tones are the limit – at least until the next Moschino x Adidas collection.

Great Watches Only Come From Heritage Brands

A common argument amongst watch purists is that a fashion brand cannot meet the prestige and craftsmanship of a luxury Swiss watchmaker.

For a long time that was true, since they never invested either the time or money it takes to build a world-class manufacture. But the likes of Gucci, Chanel, Dior and Hermès all now build their own timepieces in their own factories in Switzerland and employ world-class watchmakers.

There are still a larger number who license their logos to cheap Chinese parts, though. So make sure you do your research.

A Real Man Wears An Automatic

Correction: a rich man wears an automatic. Time was that all watches were powered by cogs and gears. Then quartz came and upset the ship. To rally, the Swiss watch industry repositioned itself as a luxury entity – you didn’t need a mechanical watch, but it marked you out as a man of means.

So yes, you’re spending more money on the people who made your watch. But a bigger chunk is going on funding the brand’s Leo DiCaprio campaign, which they hope will convince you to buy something more expensive and less accurate than a Casio.

There’s no shame in wearing a well-designed quartz watch. Especially if it comes from a brand that normally turn out automatics and you can piggyback on that marketing muscle.

You Can Judge A Man By His Watch

Yes, if you’re a judgemental materialist shallower than a shot glass. In the boardrooms of the 1980s, a man was categorized by the label (read: price tag) on his wrist. But today, we don’t all wear the same pinstripe suit.

So rather than one bonus-busting piece, the modern man knows that it’s better to have a deep rotation that fits his many moods and looks. Brands such as Triwa, Larsson & Jennings and DUFA are on a style par with (if not greater than) the Swiss old school. Meaning you can still look on-point, even when you give the Patek a day off.

The Bigger The Watch The Bigger The Man

Women have smaller wrists than men, so their watches tend to be daintier. From this fact stems the misconception that the size of your watch correlates with how much testosterone you’ve got swirling inside.

In the early-2000s, this trend meant wannabe-Gordon Gekkos wandered around with what looked like alarm clocks on their wrists, as brands like Panerai and U-Boat tapped that making-up-for-something market.

Things have slimmed down somewhat now, but the dinner plates are still out there. Next time your gaze locks on an oversized Diesel watch, remember that men in the 1940s wouldn’t wear anything over 36mm. And they didn’t exactly lack for balls.

Murray Clark