Lessons We Can Learn From Pitti Uomo 2013

Introduction

There’s no denying that once all the major fashion weeks kick off, it’s hard to keep your head above water. So many designers showcasing so many clothes over far too many countries often leaves me feeling like January has been a bit of a blur. But that’s probably just the booze. Luckily for us, we can always rely on our resident trend reporter, Ben Jones, to break down all the major trends that were shown and how we can incorporate them into our everyday lives.

However, the one fashion event I try to pay attention to (and not drink too much through) is Pitti Uomo. Twice a year, flocks of stylish men descend upon Florence, Italy, for Pitti Uomo – 59,000 square metres of exhibition space filled with everything from suiting to streetwear. It’s a buyer’s dream for all things related to men’s fashion.

Not only does the event give you a realistic idea of what will be on our radar come next winter, but it’s also a street style frenzy – with every step, corner and walkway containing the very best dressed of the menswear realm.

So rather than having to sift through every blog post, sneak peek preview and street style shot yourself, I’ve compiled a list of everything you need to know about this season’s Pitti Uomo that will be influencing our outfit choices come AW13.

Pitti Uomo: The Key Trends

1. British Heritage

The thing that struck me most when researching the clothing on show this time around was the genuine influence that Britain is having on menswear at the moment. Along with the return of a more traditional suit, complete with sharp lines and a fuller cut, the presence of tweeds, flannels and other wools couldn’t be missed.

Aside from the benefits of these materials keeping you warm, it’s just a great nod back to the birth place of men’s style and tailoring. Why not look to invest in a suit made from a winter fabric such as tweed or corduroy next December? It will look great together but works even better as separates – try a tweed blazer with some jeans or some corduroy suit trousers with a chunky knit.

• Topman Biscotti Check Heritage Suit Jacket
• Asos Slim Fit Tweed Blazer
• Topman Grey Tweed Waistcoat
• Wolsey 1755 Brown Herringbone Chester Country Blazer
• Burton Brown Check Harris Tweed Slim Fit Blazer
• Edwin Cable Knit Jumper With Crew Neck
• Edwin Cable Knit With Roll Neck
• Rag & Bone Holst Flecked Shawl-collar Sweater
• Lock & Co Hatters Corduroy Flat Cap
• Minimum Slim Fit Tweed Trouser
• Asos Slim Fit Suit Trousers In Tweed
• Ben Sherman Plectrum Corduroy Trousers

2. Navy Shoes

Along with grey, navy is easily the most underrated colour for shoes in men’s fashion. They complement pretty much any other colour in your wardrobe and add a beautiful elegance to any look.

The best part? Blue footwear came in pretty much any shoe style you could think of. Chukkas, brogues, loafers – you name it, and they were in navy. Look to invest in a pair as soon as possible to get ahead of the game.

• Florsheim Haviland Navy Suede Brogues
• Topman Frank Brogues
• Ben Sherman Brick Sole Saddle Loafer
• Asos Tassel Loafers In Leather
• Ben Sherman Long Wing Brogue
• H By Hudson Tyskatu Blue Shoes
• Paul Smith – Shoes Loomis Navy Suede Boots
• Allsaints Roc Boot
• Asos Desert Boots In Suede
• Car Shoe Suede Driving Shoes
• Paul Smith Shoes & Accessories Graham Tasselled Suede Loafers
• Paul Smith Shoes Navy Polished Leather Stacked Grand Brogues

3. Go Bold

I don’t think I saw a single solid blazer or suit jacket the whole time Pitti was on. If there was, I certainly didn’t pay attention to them – especially when there were so many bold patterns everywhere else.

Whether it was houndstooth, Glen plaid or windowpane check every sports coat in sight was rocking some sort of eye catching pattern. Make sure you keep your surrounding pieces neutral and minimal to let the jacket do all the talking.

• Reiss Sunseeker B 2 Button Cotton Check Blazer Grey
• He By Mango Check Suit Blazer
• Topman Black Jacquard Skinny Blazer
• Topman Navy Print Skinny Blazer
• Asos Slim Fit Stripe Blazer In Italian Fabric
• Boglioli Unstructured Prince Of Wales Check Linen Blazer
• Paul Smith London Byard Check Linen-blend Blazer
• Polo Ralph Lauren Riddell Indigo Sport Jacket
• Ted Baker Tigerz – Global Wool Checked Blazer
• Alexander Mcqueen Slim-fit Check Wool Blazer
• Ted Baker Citiez – Pashion Check Double Breasted Blazer
• Etro Plaid Linen-blend Blazer

4. Unexpected Layering

When it’s cold, wrapping up warm is the name of the game. But doing it in an interesting, unexpected and stylish way is the real conundrum.

This year, there were gilets over and under suits, denim jackets being paired with chunky shawl neck cardigans or navy peacoats and all manner of inventive uses of scarves.

It’s one third textures, one third experience and one third luck. But there will be more on this next week.

5. Emerald Green

Trust me, it’s going to be THE colour this coming AW13. Just take a look at the photos of GQ Fashion Editor Justin Doss in his overcoat from Suit Supply’s upcoming collection. Unbelievable.

• Reiss Bless Basic Crew Neck Tee Dark Green
• Paul Smith Jeans Pique Long Sleeve Zebra Polo
• Asos Cable Knit Jumper
• Reiss Varnish Long Sleeve Mercerised Polo Dark Green
• Reiss Buffalo Felted Cable Crew Dark Green
• Band Of Outsiders Zipped Cardigan
• Asos Cable Cardigan
• He By Mango Slim-fit Dyed Chinos
• Falke Tiago Cotton-blend Socks

6. Some People Are Just Superhuman

As with most things in life, it’s all about knowing what suits you and playing to your strengths. One of the hardest parts of Pitti, for me, is seeing all these amazingly well dressed men and wondering why I can’t do what they do.

Most of the time it is simply a combination of experience, knowledge and a pinch of innate talent and skill. Take Robert Rabensteiner as an example. The man has anticipated every major menswear trend well in advance – whether it’s unstructured blazers or the felt floppy hats all these fashion bloggers are now rocking.

Our style icon Nick Wooster is another example; he’s been getting down with everything from camouflage and zebra print to bold pink blazers and full cut tailoring since forever. As for Justin Doss – aside from that coat, how about the waxed black jeans? The wide brimmed fedoras? The guy is on another station. Some people just can’t be beaten or replicated, no matter how hard we try.

All we can do is try and style-jack bits and pieces of what he does and then just stand back in awe. My tip for next winter? He has been seen wearing a lot of colourful cravats this season. Just saying…

Final Word

So there you have it, a few of my favourite picks from what was going on at this year’s Pitti Uomo. But why not tell me what you think? Were there any other trends I didn’t mention that you really liked? What do you think about the ones highlighted? Do you think you wear a floppy felt hat better than the legendary Rabensteiner (doubt it)?

Let me know in the comments section.

Matt Allinson