From the smart and sartorial to the downright bizarre, London Fashion Week Men’s (previously known as London Collections: Men) is a bi-annual parade of everything the menswear industry has to offer. Which, judging by the dancing Teletubbies at Bobby Abley, is a lot more varied that what you’ll find in your nearest Gap.
While not all looks are that mainstream – or even that wearable – some of the best menswear lessons weren’t there on the runway, but on the front rows and street corners that hosted many a Starbucks-sipping, oh-so-casually-loitering trendsetter. These were the best-dressed men from the capital this season.
Kanye and Bon Iver, pineapple and pizza, sportswear and… tailoring? It might be an odd-couple combo but Oliver Cheshire’s mash-up of smart and casual elements works for two reasons: 1) a single overarching colour palette and 2) minimal details elsewhere. Take note.
Leave the old rules to the old school – tailoring is no longer subject to stuffy Mayfair members’ clubs. By mixing up separates, there’s a statement to be made without turning up the volume with head-to-toe tweed, herringbone or whatever the dandy fabric du jour at Boodle’s.
On paper, loose tailoring and a Hawaiian shirts sounds all sorts of Vice City. But opt for a flattering fit (and a distinct lack of fluoro), and you’ll flex a summer-ready look that’s more Mr Ripley than Miami drug lord.
Embroidery: not just your nan’s preferred pastime, or so says TV presenter Darren Kennedy. The addition of some choice palm trees to this jacket lifts a wardrobe staple to memorable status, and the 33-year-old tempered the look with foolproof denim below.
The Weakest Pink
Nick Wooster has made many a fashion statement – kimonos, short suits, three-quarter trousers – yet opted for a simpler look this season (for him, anyway). The esteemed buyer anchored a light pink bomber with foolproof grey staples, resulting in a look as solid as it is wearable.
Stripe For The Picking
Turns out there is a way to wear stripes without looking like a comedy convict. By settling on a wider stripe that’s limited to a single piece, any flirtations with fancy dress are shunted by solid, staple items elsewhere – in this case, a boxy tee and Converse.
Johannes Huebl gets his tan from a suit, not a bottle. And this time round, he lifted the flattering earth tones with a lighter blue shirt and accessories that chime with the overall palette. Far safer than a sunbed, anyway.
If anyone can pull off a tricky smart-casual dress code, it’s David Gandy. Though it’s not an impossible act to follow. By pairing a staple polo with tailored separates, the Dolce & Gabbana alumnus cut a relaxed figure for an easy summer win.
Patchwork Makes Perfect
Summer is hardly the season for an overcoat, but there’s still a way to keep cool (figuratively speaking). As shown here, patches of blue make for a wearable statement, while simple cuts and a minimalist palette keep the look grounded.
When he’s not charming the pants off interviewers (and being photographed in his own), model Eric Rutherford is leading the way in modern tailoring. This season was no exception. The double-breasted blazer bulks in all the right places, while white trousers and a simple tee dress down any potential stuffiness.