MAN Autumn/Winter 2014
Topman and Fashion East were on hand to give a leg-up to emerging talent at this year’s London Collections: MEN.
MAN is a joint venture between the high street store and the non-profit organisation established by Lulu Kennedy MBE and the Old Truman Brewery. Set up in 2000, it aims to establish a showcase for the best new talent in menswear.
The platform returned again this season, showing alongside graduates of the initiative – now in their own slots – which include Christopher Shannon, James Long and J.W. Anderson.
AW14′s designers were selected by a panel of buyers, stylists and journalists, including Nicola Formichetti, Charlie Porter and Tim Blanks. Each season the young designers receive a bursary, alongside catwalk show production, PR support and expert advice to help them launch their labels.
This season it was the turn of three up and coming talents: Alan Taylor, Bobby Abley and Craig Green.
Alan Taylor AW14
Irish designer Alan Taylor, who is a graduate of Dublin’s National College of Art and Design, kicked off the show.
With previous stints at Alexander McQueen, Agi & Sam and Simone Rocha, tailoring was at the centre of the collection.
Suits and outerwear took a Cubist approach, with colour-blocks and abstract prints prominent throughout.
Looks included a minimal pink two-piece suit with a double-breasted jacket that featured cut out detailing. An extra long black overcoat received attention for its extended and oversized lapels that came in a shimmery fabric:
Bobby Abley AW14
Hailing from London’s Ravensbourne College, Bobby Abley was next up to show his cartoon-inspired sportswear line. Several pieces contained Disney reference points, from the signature typography to the Mickey Mouse ears and Goofy eyes.
Abley’s bear logo featured on several pieces, with some models clutching a teddy as they hit the runway.
A monochrome baseball-inspired t-shirt and matching white trouser made the rounds. A more colourful, eye-catching outfit again referenced sports with an American football jersey sweater in candyfloss pink, with ‘brains’ written across the front in Disney’s iconic font:
Craig Green AW14
A nominee for the British Fashion Awards 2013 Emerging Menswear Talent, Craig Green was the last of the three to show.
A Central Saint Martins graduate, Green’s AW14 collection had an Asian samurai feel, with all-over prints and heavy draping throughout. Oversized ceremonial coats featured hand painted camo prints. Accessories included harness like bags, which wrapped around the torso of the walkers:
MAN is expected to return as a fixture at the next round of shows, with a further set of designers under its wing. London Collections: MEN SS15 will take place later this year from 15th – 17th June 2014.