Gucci Menswear: AW13
The opening of Gucci’s collection for Milan Fashion Week boosted the colour palette from the autumnal tones of many of the other collections, to an uplifting array of vibrant colour. The opening models were sent down the catwalk in the pastel blues of cloudless summer skies, as creative director, Frida Gianinni, made a daring stride away from the wintry shades used by some of her contemporaries.
As the show continued, these shades gradually faded into more sombre monotones, but these were never boring, thanks to a clever use of checks and pattern – barely an outfit went by without a flash of colour or intricate detailing on lapels, ensuring that the collection never felt drab. The whole colour palette felt very true to the beauty of nature, with bursts of sky blues, apple greens and leafy reds.
Giannini stated that the collection was for “a contemporary gentleman with a romantic soul”, a notion strongly emphasised by the subtle air of Elizabethan grandeur in some of the styles. Full, military inspired swing coats and stunning tuxedos were embellished with metallic patterns, which were much more reminiscent of luxe smoking jackets.
A selection of lavish fur trims and heavy weaved suits gave grandeur and luxury to the clothing against the simplicity of sharp but deconstructed silhouettes. A strong emphasis on structured, boxy shapes – seen in the double-breasted jackets and square cut coats, which ended just above the hip – added to the structural feel and downplayed grandeur of the collection. However, oversized coats or jumpers were always paired with slim fit trousers to create a sense of proportion, making sure that the models looked dominant but never farcical.
From checks to snakeskin, fur to leather and extravagance to functionality, this collection had it all.