Men’s Guide To Business-Casual – The Summer Edition
Paying Attention To The Details
Men’s Sunglasses & Face Shapes Guide
Man Head, Head Boy
Without sounding too obvious, 2010/2011 has definitely been a period of manlike hair styles. There has been no gradual decent from soft “razor-cut” outlines; the chopped up, messed up, face hugging lad badge of honour has been replaced by the “man head” – in the form of architectural shapes and geometric lines. In most cases these looks show more skin than hair, especially through the sides and back, whilst on top the length and style is optional – so long as it is top heavy.
‘Short back and sides’ I hear you say. It’s not exactly a new trend and I have written many lines about taking down the sides and back to the wood. What makes these a step up from the previous trend cuts is the brutish style they portray; no face shaping quiffs or soft sweeping fringes, we’re talking industrial strength haircuts. It’s like the difference between a boot and a shoe; a boot is the footwear of a coal miner, whilst a shoe is that of a dancer – so this season “Man up and get your hair cut”.
The Industrial Head
Get your hairdresser to bone off* the back and sides (if you’ve got any head scars then these will add kudos), as you really want to see some skin. The top is taken down to about 1cm, either cut to a slightly rounded head shape or a more angular 80s flattop – if you are under 28 years old ask your dad to describe.
There will be no sissy wisps or fringes hanging across the forehead; the front should be so short that it won’t go anywhere near you forehead. If you must have a fringe, wear it either to the side or straight down and make sure it is strong and heavy.
This look needs building up with some serious product. If you want to wear it flattened and to the side then use a paste or moulder, as these will work on both medium to thick and wavy textured hair. Try REDKEN For Men Work Hard Power Paste as this is great for control – performs best with thicker hair but works very well on all textures. To thicken up finer hair first utilise a thickening shampoo. Goldwell For Men Thickening Shampoo will help plump and thicken the density, whilst L’Oreal Professional tecni.art Density Material is a soft paste that will also help create a denser look and make it easier to control.
Wear this look bold!
The Look Book
- Redken For Men Work Hard Power Paste 100ml
- Dualsenses By Goldwell Dualsenses For Men Thickening Shampoo 300ml
- Loréal Professionnel Tecni Art Play Ball Density Material 100ml
*Bone Off: Shaving hair off with clippers – grade 1 or 2 should do it for this look.
Quiff Head Revisited
I never thought I would still be talking about this look in late 2011 but this is a male style which is going to run for a while yet.
A lot of my male clients want to keep the look but change it – yes, that is “keep it the same but change it” – even Harry Potter would struggle with that request. As I mentioned in a previous article, hair – unlike clothing – can’t change as frequently, as there is only so much you can do. Obviously that would not be a good enough answer for a fashion savvy client, and that is why us hairdressers have got to be geniuses able to re-invent, be original and sometimes change something but keep it the same. It just so happens that this exactly what’s happening with the Quiff.
The Look Book
The Change
The quiff of 2010 to present has been a sophisticated and undramatic style. When it first returned after a long absence it was obviously a leap from some of the messy and textured looks a couple of years ago, with many quoting it as being the most exciting movement in men’s hair for some years; sleek, coiffed and grown up. Almost the opposite of what I have started to do to update this classic.
As with the Industrial Head style above, the length through the sides and back is skin short – right the way up to where the head starts to curve. The length on top is very long and disconnected from the back and sides, meaning it’s not joined or blended in from bottom to top.
Of course the choice on how to wear the top is purely a personal one and will depend on your hair texture and density. Worn up and back in classic 50s fashion gives it a masculine boldness and a rockabilly mood, with the disconnection and long length on top making it more eccentric but a haircut to be taken seriously. Leaving a long length on top but getting it sliced up a bit to create some different lengths and texture certainly makes it a hybrid but with pedigree – a combo 50s manish style and 80s youth.
How To Style
This look can be finished by applying a soft pliable wax such as TIGI Bed Head for Men Matte Separation Workable Wax, or a dryer matt paste like Hairbond Moulder Professional Hair Shaper. The wax gives a clean, almost greased finish, while the matt paste gives more hold and a dry finish. So here is how to style:
For this particular style I’ve taken to applying shed loads of product (again this depends on hair type) so don’t mess around with a smear of wax, get stuck in and pull out a enough to cover all the hair. We are not talking a fist sized amount, just enough to coat the hair. Apply to the hair by pushing through with the palms of your hands and fingers then comb through – yes that’s right, a use comb. I know it is an item only men of 60 plus carry around in their back pocket but you need to get the product distributed through the hair evenly. After you have applied the product, separate out the hair with your fingers – keep it high and quiff like but give it some direction and dimension.
For those with finer hair or want a cleaner look, use a hairspray – I know this sounds a bit girly but bear with me. On dry hair, spray one area of your hair at a time with a small amount of hairspray and brush through your hair immediately before it sets in the direction you want your hair to be styled – upwards in this case. Do this until your hair starts to stay in place, and if needed spray a little directly onto the brush and brush hair. This technique can be a good way to finish off, when used with a hairspray designed for men such as TIGI Bed Head Power Surge Strong Hold Hairspray. If you think your hair will take it, apply a small amount of soft paste or wax for definition after.
- Tigi Power Surge Strong Hold Hairspray 250ml
- Hairbond Moulder Professional Hair Shaper 100ml
- Tigi Matte Separation Workable Wax 75g
- G B Kent Kent 3t Comb
- Kent Tortoiseshell Effect Fine Pocket Comb – Small Fot
- Denman Hyflex Vent
Dealing With Men’s Thick, Wavy Or Unruly Hair
Picking A New Men’s Hairstyle
Men’s Hair Trends For Spring/Summer 2013
Hairstyle Trend: Men’s Long Hair
Back To Top
Robert, commendable work. You have’t let me down. I really like what you have done with the reinvention of the quiff. The disconnected aspect allows for a fair amount of playaround, making it much more versatile than earlier incarnations of the cut that we were seeing a couple of years ago.
You have saved me from the brink of the abyss-hair wise.
Excellently executed.
I think what I like about these styles most is the fact that they would work great with some short stubble and/or facial hair – continuing down from the shaved sides.
Tobias [quiff look book bottom right] has some stubble there but slightly more prominent growth would give your whole look even more edge and some rebelliousness – even for the pretty boys amongst us.
I suppose I have had a variation of these hairstyles for the last couple of years, with the length of the top growing and shortening as whim allows. The one thing I’d say is that what you *don’t* say about both of these hairstyles is that they are quite severe. All facial features are laid bare and the images you have chosen to demonstrate them show men who can be little older than 22. Any man who attempts these who has, well shall we say a little ‘character’ in his face runs the risk of looking old. I’ve done it myself, gone for the big chop and been horrified at the old man with a boy’s haircut staring back at me.
You say for men under 28 to ask their dads what a flat-top is, but if you’re over 28 and know what one is, avoid it – unless you’re line-free and/or Botoxed.
I’d love to see suggestions for men in their mid to late thirties who don’t feel it’s time to give up being contemporary, but don’t want to look as if they’re desperately clinging onto youth. What do we do?
Yes they are definitely harsh cuts – I think this is the case with any style that shows skin around the back and sides. The really short industrial style I think can work on the maturer male – as this tends to be the ‘go-to’ as men lose their hair anyway?
We will definitely look at working on some maturer hairstyle articles as well. As I have mentioned in the forums recently, we are looking to get a gallery launched in the New Year which will hopefully provide inspiration much like our street style section.
Great article, really loving the lookbook you created. Are there any examples of hair that is really curly that use the same style but with curls on top? Everytime I’ve tried to create this look it just goes like a mushroom but when I cut my hair as short as a couple of cm its just tufty and dry.
Hi Dalton, I looked for a lot of these look book images so might be able to fin you something – was it the quiff style or industrial style you were looking at more?
Hi Ben, either. I always try to make my curly hair look more modern but very rarely does a ‘new’ hairstyle work for me
@guyliner, a great look for the older gent this winter is a grown out side parting. For inspiration here’s a few examples: Ewan Mcgreggor, johnny Depp in ‘the rum diary’ and I’ve seen Robert Pattinson sporting it.
Pulled off the hair on the sides needs to be between 1 and 2″ long, the hair on top double. Sweep it back with a product which doesn’t give too much hold, add a parting, add a few parts that don’t conform to the lines and finish with a little hairspray.
Just like James ‘Jimmy’ Darmody from Boardwalk Empire’s hair. I find it a little severe that short right up the back and sides plus I feel a little bit too old to be sporting this cut. I think I’ll stick to my usual quiff for now and maybe go for one of those shorter bone off cuts when the mood takes me. I would recommend one of those Kent handmade combs also.
@Ben. You’re absolutely right. I love that cut. Where did you get the image? Would look great with my beard I think!
Hi Olly – your best bet is to google image search Tobias Sorensen – he OWNS this look: http://www.fbeans.me/tobiashair
On a related note – I am going to be putting some more images on Facebook as a follow up to this later – just some more quiffs of varying harshness that I came across when searching. He will have a few though I can tell you.
It appears that twice this year i’ve now unwittingly managed to adopt trendy haircuts before i knew they would be trendy; i’ve had the ‘industrial head’ for the past six weeks, just been redone, and before that i’d had the step/no back and sides since march.
I suppose this is what you get for taking clothing catalogues/lookbooks into the barbers.
As an update to the article, I have just posted a larger look book gallery of the updated Quiff style on our facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/fashionbeansOfficial
Showcases a variety – from harsh to more subtle approaches. You can then download images individually as well.
Great article, I’ve been sporting the quiff for a while now and a revamp/reinvention of the look is exactly what I need, especially to avoid the ‘Joey Essex’ comments! My hair is hard to work with, I have a double crown and cow lick at the front, any recommendations for a good barber, London or Nottingham based, need some professional, experienced advice on how to get a cut best suited to me and my problems!
In Nottingham best barbers is 63 in clifton, ask for a Baiden, he owns it and was the head trainer at Peppers and Jacques for years he always cuts my hair when im down there
ah i’m bored of quiffs already tbh. I’ve grown my hair long now. just something I admire about a lush head of hair!
Going for the industrial look since it’s easy to manage in hot weather (Fiji doesn’t really have winter haha!)
Great article btw
Alex Turner from Arctic Monkeys had a quiff when I saw them play in Indianapolis. Spectacular concert and hair!
Hey,
Where could I get a picture of the Bottom right of the ‘Industrial Haircut’ look book, do you have a link? As i would like to take it into the barbers.
Thanks
I really want to try the industrial look (some of my friends look great with it), but the problem is that I have a rather large nose, and I read somewhere that if you have a face feature that is not to your liking, you should adopt a hairstyle that would draw the attention from the face. Is it true? Should I get the industrial look?
My suggestion is that facial features become more prominent the less hair you have. There’s a chance you may be being too paranoid about the nose issue – obviously I can’t say – but longer locks and facial hair may work to take attention away from certain areas of your face.
I need help!!
iv currently got a cut similar to michael pitt… my problem is that either my crown is thinning or its making my crown look thin… every time theres any parting of hair back there my hair looks like im going bald at the crown (i have a double crown aswell!!!) so needing advice on either cut or product… using hairbond sculpter to style… and wash hair with american crew thickening shampoo already..