The world of fashion has fallen in love with tailoring. Whether this is sharp suits and coats, fitted shirts and slim trousers, or the persistent use of ties, pocket squares and scarfs – a sartorially impeccable look has become the goal for many men. The mood at the recent men’s autumn/winter preview shows only confirmed this; with a continued obsession for tailored jackets, well cut suits and a plethora of elegant accessories.
Although this was a theme common to many designer houses, fashion never simply reproduces tried and tested without re-inventing some aspects or bringing something new. Prada has shown itself as perhaps one of the bravest, shocking all with a recourse back to the times when the real men wore uniforms and badges were earned instead of mere accessories. Long double breasted overcoats in dark seasonal colours – including bottleneck green, deep burgundy and charcoal grey – slicked hair and red sunglasses in archaic shapes; all the features fell within the themes of ‘dictators’ or ‘army’.
In the words of Miuccia Prada herself, this was a tailoring show; a showing of elegance and powerful dressing.
As if trying to legitimise the brave step in a new direction, the clothes were worn by no one else than A-list Hollywood actors, including Oldman, Brody and Dafoe. It is typical for fashion to lose touch with reality. It is our job at FashionBeans to bring it back down to Earth and explain its meaning in simple terms.
Prada’s AW12 collection was one of its most radical. It also made it clear what the next step from today’s obsession with all things fitted could be. Think Boardwalk Empire; wider trousers, patterns and colour combinations taking us back to the eras past; such as stripes, embroidery and earthy deep colours. Prepare for much shorter blazers and much longer overcoats, with a rising popularity of double breasted finish.
A step in the new direction, the show was met with an instant applause; perhaps making it clear that the world of fashion is prepared for something new.