Introduction
Continuing our breakdown to the key items and trends you need in order to be prepared for the the forthcoming autumn/winter, we are taking an in depth look at another outerwear trend which started to make rumblings within men’s fashion last year – much like shearling. The duffle coat has rose back to prominence within menswear, such is our current obsession with the past and need to find alternative pieces that allow us to distance ourselves from the crowd.
The duffle coat is a fine piece that is draped in history and military influences. It was initially worn by Belgian fisherman but gained popularity with the general population after it was issued to the British Royal Navy during World War I and II – where they were used to protect against the extreme cold and wind of the Atlantic and North Sea. After the war, many of the duffle coats worn by the Navy were made available for purchase to civilians through army surplus stores, selling extremely well due to the link to the heroes that had protected and fought for our country.
The duffle coats initially created for the Navy were built for practicality; they were cut large so they could fit another waterproof or jacket underneath (for added warmth), had large hoods attached in order to fit over peaked Naval caps, and the coat was fastened by with toggles so they could be easily done up/undone whilst wearing thick gloves.
Of course, modern day duffle coats still retain that sought after practicality through their thick (often wool) construction – meaning you will stay warm and dry all the way through winter and into the spring showers. They are now cut a lot slimmer – such is the move toward a sharper silhouette – but they have retained the utilitarian feel with practical deep pockets and toggles which can still be done up and undone just as easily in gloves.
On The Runways
The duffle coats continuing resurgence was there for all to see on the autumn/winter 2011 runways. It was endorsed on the catwalks by the likes of Burberry, Bottega Veneta, Paul Smith, Acne and Balmain – quite a list of premium fashion houses.
Burberry have been featured multiple times in recent weeks on FashionBeans due to their sought after coloured outerwear, which stole the show at many of the fashion weeks around the globe. It’s not hard to see why, with the beautiful on trend orange and bold blue duffles coats featured below [top left & centre].
Paul Smith also produced his own version of the coloured coat with a vibrant yellow duffle [middle right], as well as creating his own take on the duffle coat with his trench-duffle hybrid [middle row left & centre] – the perfect fusion of practicality and sharp, clean lines.

How To Wear
The duffle coat offers versatility and practicality for the wearer. New styles are often slimmer cut but still retain bulk due to their thick construction and the fact that they are a true winter coat. With this in mind, you can easily use it as a finishing layer to all your current outfits and looks – there are no hard and fast rules as to how you should wear them, just let the duffle coat do its job and take you from A to B in complete warmth.
That being said, if you are looking for inspired trend looks or pieces you could pair with the duffle coat, then look no further than military influences. The jacket was iconic in the Royal Navy, meaning that Breton stripes, navy blazers and chinos are all perfect for hitting that nautical inspired style. With connections to fishermen, you can also look to dress it up with other similarly inspired pieces such as beanie hats, thick cable knit jumpers, and even thin fisherman jackets layered underneath – we rounded up the look earlier this year.
Duffle Coat Look Book

In terms of options and styles of duffle coats available this year, you are spoilt for choice. There are full length and cropped versions, so the choice depends on how you want to utilise your new outerwear. If you want a jacket that will keep you warm and dry on the commute to work, then a long length duffle coat will be perfect for layering over (and protecting) a suit. However, if you want versatility, a cropped version would be best. This allows you to utilise bold statement trousers or chinos on your bottom half (without them being covered up), whilst still keeping you dry up top.
As for colours, the duffle coat tends to look best in your timeless neutrals – think browns, navy, black, grey and even camel. This is due to the fact that it does have to deal with the (often harsh) elements, and darker neutrals will hide weather and environmental stains much better. Not only that, we all know by now that these colours will never go out of style, and will anchor or coordinate with nearly every other item you have in your wardrobe. A neutral coat is also a safe choice for those wishing to create a professional appearance, i.e. utilising it with work wear.
If you are feeling slightly more adventurous, then a bold coloured duffle coat could be for you. At the time of writing, not many of the high street brands had created these – meaning a bright orange, yellow or green duffle coat may be out of budget for most. Hopefully as the months progress, we will see a high street store create a similar version to the orange or cobalt Burberry duffle coats, allowing the brave to really put their own personal stamp on the darker seasons.
The pick of the styles this year for me though has to be a camel duffle. It is such a beautiful colour that will coordinate with everything in your wardrobe – whether that is a black suit for work, or indigo jeans at the weekend. Not only that, but it is a neutral colour which still makes a statement and oozes class. The camel wool overcoat is often seen on the back of many of the world’s stylish males, and now you can have an alternative, modern version that is perfect for those wanting a bit more versatility.
Current Duffle Coat Picks
Conclusion
So what do you think? We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments below.
- Is the duffle coat your choice of outerwear this year?
- Will you be adding one to your wardrobe?
- Do you like the long or cropped length versions best?
- Would you opt for a timeless neutral or something bolder like at Burberry and Paul Smith?
- How would you dress it up?
- Is it more suitable for work or casual outfits?
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I’m shopping for a new coat, but in this collection nothing interesting, nothing new and looks like old fashion. Not buying.
Thanks for the feedback, I guess the duffle coat is not your style – it is definitely not for everyone. We have plenty more breakdowns of other outerwear that is set to be popular this year so hopefully you will eventually find something that suits your personal taste and wardrobe.
Why don’t you let us know what your choice of coat is for this season?
I’m on the hunt for a navy trench coat, but now i’m thinking that i need one of these too.
Great article and something which I think I’ll be looking into for the winter. Some great examples in the lookbook!
So what style and colour is everyone’s favourite?
The length of the coat in look book image three, in the yellow from image six, with the blue trousers and hat from image nine!
Now that definitely WOULD be a statement!
Nice article… personally im not keen on duffle coats. i feel that trenches and mac’s are much more asthetic and offer more versatility as they look great with a casual outfit or smarter one.
That said, i am quite tempted by the A.P.C duffle on the bottom row, but i have a very nice peacoat which is similar, but i feel nicer…
Where’s the duffel from the first look book picture? I love the length and the fact it just falls off the shoulders
I have a gorgeous black one but it’s far too slim fitting unfortunately to the point of being restricting and not allowing for layering which I think really favours a duffle coat as a lot of the pictures above demonstrate. Might try to flog it on ebay and reinvest in a better fitting one as I absolutely love them. Any idea where the green one, bottom left of the look book is from? I’m not usually one for vibrant colour but that is a perfect shade of green!
My god! The entire Paul Smith row of the lookbook looks absolutely awesome. Favourite brand, personally! I wish I could afford that stuff. Or fit into it. But there’s still growing left to be done… I hope.
In any case I think Gloverall deserved a mention for basically being the definitive duffel coat brand! But I do like the Paul Smith designs. Personally I quite like a Duffel that is, well, you’d probably call it double breasted even though it still has just the one row of fastenings – but you know what I mean, where it’s fastened on the right side of your torso rather than straight down the middle. Very cool.
That massive Acne duffel is pretty cool too!
Good article, was hoping you guys would do an article on this sooner or later. Really want to get my hands on a duffle coat for winter especially the long length ones. To me, duffle coats works more in your favor for casual wear but it looks good too for work attire. As for color, would probably stick to black since bold colors on a coat is something that’s just not my style (I think bold colors on coats are seriously cool but it’s not for me).
I bought the All Saints missile duffle coat last Autumn, so it’s nice to see them featured here for the coming winter… looks identical to the first look book photo. Timeless neutral like black or navy and cropped since I’m 5’10.
I got a grey one last winter :)
I’ve got a black one with camel coloured fastenings from Zara kids range last year, it looks nice but kind of looks a bit cheap to me. I really want the camel or navy uniqlo one now.
Can anyone tell me where the green duffle is from? I like!
Great article – I really want one now but all the best ones are in navy. I’m very reliant on black skinny jeans – is navy and black still considered a fashion mistake?
In my opinion, the toggles are the reason why duffle coats don’t have as much flair as outerwear styles such as the trench coat. Compared to a button or even a zip, toggles are chunkier, far less clean and dangle about randomly. The designers certainly tried hard to make duffle coats work in those featured catwalk photos but picture the coats with button or zip fastenings and they would probably look far better.
Perhaps if they were to make duffle coats without the toggles? They aren’t the only trademark feature of duffle coats, since those square shoulder pads and funnel neck/hood combo aren’t often seen on other styles. Granted, the design may look a bit plain without the toggles but this can be compensated for by, for example, using leather shoulder patches.
Don’t realli get to enjoy purchasing Duffle coats as its tropical all year for me~
Realli like them in cream or light badge to go with brighter clothes on the inside to create an element of mystic and surprise. The shorter ones are definitely a hit for me. Can’t wait to get one for a winter gettaway.
Cheers~